CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. From August 18th, 1877, to July 8th, 1878.
PREACHING TOURS
AND
Missionary Labours
OF
GEORGE MÜLLER
(of Bristol.)
BY
Mrs. MÜLLER.
1883.
LONDON: J. Nisbet & Co., Berners Street.
TO BE HAD ALSO IN BRISTOL, AT THE BIBLE AND TRACT WAREHOUSE
OF THE SCRIPTURAL KNOWLEDGE INSTITUTION FOR
HOME AND ABROAD, NO. 34, PARK STREET; AND THROUGH
ALL BOOKSELLERS.
DRYDEN PRESS:
J. DAVY AND SONS, 137, LONG ACRE, LONDON.
[All Rights Reserved.]
Entered at Stationers' Hall.
INTRODUCTION.
Before the perusal of this book is entered upon, it
seems desirable that I should myself state to the
reader, what led me to undertake these missionary
tours. It may be well to refer also to the objects I
had particularly in view in connection with them;
to mention how far the desired result has been
attained; and to notice a few other points relating to
these journeys.
During many years the thought occurred to me
again and again, that it might be the will of God I
should seek to benefit His children and the unconverted,
not through my publications only, but by
ministering personally amongst them in other places
besides Bristol; but my position as pastor of a large
church, and as Director of a great Institution, which
seemed to require my constant presence, for a long
time put aside the thought. At last, however, when
staying in the Isle of Wight in the autumn of 1874,
finding that my preaching at Ventnor and Ryde had
been unusually blessed and valued, I judged, that,
having very efficient fellow labourers in the Church
at Bristol, I could be spared, and that my absence
would not be particularly felt. With reference to
the work on Ashley Down, too, as Mr. Wright had
for many years been an able helper in connection
with it; as he had by that time been appointed Co-Director
of the Institution; and as I had laboured
in word and doctrine in Bristol (almost exclusively)
for forty-three years; it was laid upon my heart to
go from city to city, and from country to country, in
order to benefit (if possible) both the Church of
Christ and the world at large, by my ministry and
experience. Accordingly, after much prayer and
waiting upon God, I decided upon devoting a very
considerable portion of my time habitually to this
service, as long as health and strength should be continued
to me.
The objects I have in view in undertaking these
tours are the following:—
1. To preach the Gospel in the simplest way possible,
that persons may understand how the blessing,
which sinners receive through faith in Christ, is to
be obtained. Many who are really in earnest about
their salvation, are nevertheless without peace,
because they rest upon their feelings. They do not
see that every one, who is convinced that he is a lost
sinner by nature, and confesses this before God,
passes sentence upon himself (so to speak), that, if
he depends solely on the perfect obedience of the
Lord Jesus unto death, even the death on the cross
and upon His substitutional sacrifice, he receives the
forgiveness of all his sins, is justified the moment he
believes in Jesus and shall not perish, but have everlasting
life. Rom. v. 1; Acts x. 43; John iii. 16.
2. During my pastoral labours for many years I
found, that numbers of true children of God are
without the knowledge of their standing in Christ.
They do not enter into the fact, that they have passed
from death unto life, that they are regenerated, pardoned,
justified, accepted in the Beloved, and are no
longer under condemnation. Now, having entered
into all this experimentally for more than half a
century myself, I desire (with the help of God) to
bring others also to an apprehension of these blessings;
and how greatly this service is needed, is
obvious from the fact, that there are great numbers
of preachers of the Gospel and pastors, who, being
without the knowledge of their own personal salvation,
are, in consequence, entirely destitute of any
real peace and joy in the Lord.
3. Another object I aim at is, to bring Christians
back to the Holy Scriptures; to urge them to try
everything by the word of God, and to value that
only, which will stand this test. I endeavour therefore,
to lead believers to become lovers of the Bible,
by exhorting them to a daily, systematic, consecutive
reading and study of it; for I know from an experience
of more than half a century the blessedness
of doing this myself, and also, what loss I experienced
during the first three years after my conversion, from
not attending to it.
4. Further, I aim at a removal of sectarianism, at
promoting brotherly love amongst true Christians;
and with this object in view go amongst all real
believers, by whatever name they are called, provided
they are sound in the foundation truths of our holy
faith. Though not agreeing at all, with some of their
opinions and practices, I nevertheless preach amongst
all, having seen for many years how greatly the heart
of the Lord Jesus must be grieved by the disunion
that exists among His own true disciples. On this
account, therefore, I have sought (in my feeble measure)
to unite all real believers; but, as this cannot
be done, by standing aloof from our brethren in
Christ, until they see eye to eye with us, in every
point, I have gone amongst them, and have united
with them, in so far as nothing has been required of
me which I could not do with a good conscience.
5. As for more than half a century I have seen
how very little real trust in the Living God there is
(generally speaking), even amongst true Christians, I
have sought also in these my missionary tours, particularly,
to strengthen their faith; because, in the
course of my pastoral labours, the blessed results of
real confidence in God on the one hand have come to
my knowledge, and the misery of distrusting Him
also on the other.
6. Both in my public ministry of the Word, and
private intercourse with Christians, I seek to lead
my fellow disciples to more real separation from
the world and deadness to it, and to promote
heavenly mindedness in them, according to the Scriptures.
At the same time, however, I warn them
against extravagances (such as sinless perfection in the
flesh), which are not to be found in the Word of God.
7. As the Lord enables me, I give instruction also
about the true character of the present dispensation
and the end thereof, and strive to lead the Church
of Christ to look for His second coming as her great
hope.
In these nine long missionary tours, I have gladly
embraced every opportunity also of having meetings
with ministers and pastors of Churches, both for
the sake of encouraging them in their service, and
that I might benefit them through my own experience
of fifty-seven years in the ministry of the
Word. I have availed myself too of every opportunity
of addressing students in Universities, Theological
Seminaries, and Colleges, and have had opportunities
likewise of addressing 1,000 or 1,500 Christian
workers at a time, and of seeking to benefit
them by my experience. This kind of work I have
now been able to do in twenty-two different countries;
for after having spent a considerable time in such
labour in England, Scotland, and Ireland, I was led
in the providence of God to Switzerland, Germany,
Holland, France, Spain, Italy, Canada, the United
States, Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Turkey,
Greece, Austria, Hungary, Bohemia, Russia, and
Russian Poland.
The reader may now be desirous of asking—"And
what has been the result of all this service?" My
reply is—The day of the Lord alone will reveal it.
Here on earth but little can be known, comparatively,
of the fruit of our labours; yet, as far as I have
been permitted to see, even here, there is good reason
to believe, that I have not been directed to one single
place, regarding which there was not manifest proof,
that the Lord sent me there, on account of the visible
blessing which rested on my labours.
It may be desirable also to state, why an account
of these missionary tours has been published in this
form, as several of these journeys have already been
referred to in the Reports of the Scriptural Knowledge
Institution. The reason is, that, in the Reports
a very brief account only of them has been given,
and that always in detached portions. Now, as my
dear wife has invariably accompanied me in my
travels, during the past eight years, and has kept a
journal regularly of my labours for the Lord, we
judged that a connected and much fuller account of
them might be given in a book, than could be published
in any other manner. Through a perusal of
this Narrative it is hoped also that Christians may
be led to give themselves to prayer for blessing on
this my past service, and that God may help me in
any future labours, to which, in His providence, I
may yet be called. We considered likewise, that, in
this way, Christians may be led to give themselves to
prayer for the countries, in which I have been
labouring; and, lastly, that, with God's blessing, other
aged and experienced brethren and pastors may be led
to devote the evening of their life to similar service.
God has been pleased within the last thirty-five years
to raise up thousands for evangelistic work; but,
it is well known, that there are comparatively very
few who labour amongst the churches, and can bring
the experience of a long life in the service of the Lord
to bear upon the assemblies of Christians whom they
visit. If, through the reading of this book, God
should be pleased to incline the hearts of aged, experienced,
and very godly servants of Christ, to
devote their declining years to the visiting of Churches,
both my dear wife and myself shall consider ourselves
abundantly recompensed for our attempt to
serve Him by publishing this Narrative. Hundreds
of times, both separately and unitedly, we have besought
our Heavenly Father to bless this labour for
Him, and we are sure that He will graciously answer
our request.
It now remains only, that I say a few words regarding
the photograph, which is given in this book.
During the last thirty years I have been asked
many hundreds of times, both verbally and in writing,
for my likeness; but my reply has invariably been:
"As I do not wish to direct attention to myself, but
to my Lord and Master, I must decline to comply with
your request." Notwithstanding this, however, applications
for my portrait have been continued, and are
still made more than ever. Twenty years ago I was
offered £500, if I would allow it to be published; but the
offer was declined for the reasons already given. Since
we have been travelling about, in almost every town
or city, where I have laboured (with very rare exception)
this request has been renewed; and very often
has been made by many residing in the same place.
Again and again photographers (brethren in Christ)
have called and begged me to let them take my likeness,
because so many friends desired to possess it.
Whilst at St. Petersburg, a Christian gentleman came
to see me (who, together with his wife, after a state
of long spiritual deadness, had been revived in soul
through my ministry), and on taking leave of me,
with the probability that we should never meet
again on earth, begged earnestly for my photograph;
but I gave the answer, which has always been given
under such circumstances. As recently as during my
last stay in London, I received a letter from a photographer,
stating that a servant of Christ, who was
going to publish the photographs of certain well
known pastors and teachers, desired particularly to
include mine amongst the rest; but his application
succeeded no better than others of the same kind
have done. This very day on which I am now writing,
another request for my photograph has been
made to me by letter, and many hundreds of times
have I thus been entreated for my likeness, but in
vain.
And what has been the result of all this? In consequence
of my steadfast refusal to be photographed,
several representations of me (for likenesses they cannot
be called, as I never sat for one of them) have
been published, without my knowledge and against
my will. A religious periodical, extensively circulated
in America, containing one of these portraits,
has gone all through the United States. An enterprising
photographer tried once to secure my likeness
too, by an instantaneous process, as I was driving in
an open carriage up a hill, but was foiled in the
attempt. A portrait of George Müller also, with a
most doleful expression of countenance (conveying not
the slightest idea of the happy man he really is), has
been going the round, and occasionally has come
before me, even in the houses of my best friends. In
the fear of God, therefore, I have come to this conclusion:
Since the public insist upon having a portrait
of me (whether I like to give it or whether I do
not), let my beloved Christian friends at least have a
photograph that is a real and not a false representation
of their unworthy brother in Christ; and especially,
let it be one with a pleasant, cheerful expression
of countenance, that will glorify and not dishonour
the Lord I love; for our very faces even
should show forth His praise.
And now in conclusion, I have one earnest request
to make, which is this: that (after yielding to the
desire for my likeness so very long expressed, and
having had it published) my friends will have the
great kindness to refrain from applying either to me
or to any of my helpers at the Orphan Houses for it,
under the supposition that the photograph can be
obtained in the form of a "carte-de-visite." As it
has not been published separately from this book, it
cannot possibly be had in any other form than is given
here. One especial reason I had for inserting it in
the book, and for not allowing it to be published
separately, was, that as the amount of work we have
at the Orphan Houses is already very great, I
earnestly desire that it may not be increased by our
having to respond to continual applications by letter
for my photograph, which in all probability would be
made, if the likeness could be obtained separately.
I am sure, however, that nothing further need be said
on the subject, as all my dear Christian friends, who
really love and esteem me, will at once see how reasonable
and important my request is.
GEORGE MÜLLER.
New Orphan Houses,
Ashley Down, Bristol. July, 1883.
CONTENTS.
First Tour.—England. From March 26th to July 6th, 1875
Second Tour.—England, Scotland, and Ireland. From August 14th, 1875, to July 5th, 1876
Third Tour.—Continent of Europe. From August 16th, 1876, to June 25th, 1877
Fourth Tour.—Canada and the United States. From August 18th, 1877, to July 8th, 1878
Fifth Tour.—Continent of Europe. From Sept. 5th, 1878, to June 18th, 1879
Sixth Tour.—United States and Canada. From August 27th, 1879, to June 17th, 1880
Seventh Tour.—Canada and the United States. From Sept. 15th, 1880, to May 31st, 1881
Eighth Tour.—Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Turkey, and Greece. From August 23rd, 1881, to May 30th, 1882
Ninth Tour.—European: Including Germany, Austria, Hungary, Bohemia, Russia, and Russian Poland. From August 8th, 1882, to June 1st, 1883
FIRST MISSIONARY TOUR.
ENGLAND. From March 26th to July 6th, 1875.
As the origin of these Missionary Tours has been fully
explained in the Introduction to this book, it will
be unnecessary to advert to the circumstances which
led to them any further. It may therefore now be stated,
that on March 26th, 1875, Mr. Müller and myself set off
upon our first missionary journey to a few places in
England, and began by visiting Brighton, where he
preached several times. He held one meeting also at
Lewes; and after he had preached repeatedly again at
the Presbyterian Church, the Pavilion Dome, etc., at
Brighton, we went to London, where, on the evening of
May 6th, he addressed a very large congregation at Mr.
Spurgeon's Tabernacle. On May 8th, we went to Sunderland,
where he preached six times, and on the 25th proceeded
to Newcastle, at which town he held a meeting at
one of the Wesleyan Chapels, and gave a long address to
Christian workers at a Union Prayer-Meeting the next day.
He preached at Newcastle also on May 26th, and on the
27th we returned to Sunderland. There he preached on
the morning and evening of May 30th, attended a Union
Prayer-Meeting the following day, at which he spoke for
three quarters of an hour, and gave a farewell address on
June 2nd. On the 3rd we went again to Newcastle, at
which town he held eighteen meetings—making a total of
sixty-two since we left home on March 26th—and thence
returned to London, where, on June 24th and 25th, he
spoke at the Conference Hall, Mildmay Park, and was
one of the speakers who addressed about 3,000 persons on
the evening of the 27th. On July 1st we went to Notting
Hill. There my husband preached at the Talbot Street
Tabernacle four times, and on the evening of June 5th
addressed 1,500 Christian Workers for nearly an hour and
a half at the "Edinburgh Castle," London—a service
which brought his first preaching tour to a close.
On July 6th we returned to Bristol, where, besides
working daily at the Orphan Houses, and transacting
much business connected with the other branches of the
Scriptural Knowledge Institution, Mr. Müller preached,
as usual, several times; and after remaining at home for
five weeks and four days, we set off again upon our missionary
travels.
SECOND TOUR.
ENGLAND, SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. From August 14th, 1875, to July 5th, 1876.
On August 14th, 1875, we went to London on our
second tour, of which, for the sake of brevity, it may
be desirable to give a very short sketch only.
On the 15th my husband preached in the afternoon and
evening at the Mildmay Conference Hall, when on the
latter occasion he addressed about 3,000 persons from
1st Peter i. 8; and during the 15 days we were in London
he preached 14 times altogether. Whilst there, he held
several meetings also at the Mildmay Conference Hall for
the benefit of young converts. Messrs. Moody and Sankey,
after their long service in England, Scotland, and Ireland,
had by that time returned to the United States; and as
these devoted servants of Christ, whose labours were so
abundantly blessed in the conversion of sinners, were
unable to remain long in the places they visited, Mr.
Müller had it especially laid upon his heart to preach
in the large cities where they laboured, in order that,
through his long experience in the ministry of the Word,
he might help young converts, and instruct them more
than (from want of time) these brethren had been able to do.
On August 30th we went to Stafford, on our way to
Windermere and the Lake District in the north of England,
where a few days were spent; and on Sept. 11th
reached Kilmarnock, Scotland, at which town Mr. Müller
preached morning and evening on the 12th. At Saltcoats
he spoke on the 16th for an hour and a quarter at a Conference,
and preached altogether seven times at Kilmarnock
in the Churches of that town.
On Sept. 20th we went to Dundee, where on the 21st
he spoke at the Conference Hall in the morning to about
1,200 people, and in the evening addressed 2,000 in the
same place. On the 23rd he gave an address at a public
breakfast, spoke at the Conference Hall again in the
afternoon, and held a third meeting in the evening. On
Sept. 29th, at St. Peter's, where McCheyne laboured, he
preached from Psalm ciii. 3-5; held a meeting on the
30th at the Free Memorial Church, preached on the evening
of Oct. 3rd at Kinnaird Hall to about 3,000 hearers, and
during the 15 days we were at Dundee, spoke 17 times in
public altogether. After leaving Dundee and visiting
Dalkeith, on Oct. 9th we went to Perth, where Mr.
Müller preached five times, and on the 13th proceeded to
Glasgow, in which city, at the Convention, he gave
two addresses, on the 14th, on the power of the Spirit,
speaking on the first occasion to about 5,000 people, and
afterwards (by request) on the same subject to an overflow
meeting of 1,200.
On the evening of the 17th, at the Prince of Wales
Theatre, Glasgow, he addressed an assembly of 3,000 from
1st Cor. xv. 1-2, when, at the inquirers' meeting which
followed this service, it was found that 20 persons were
impressed, and that one individual had found peace in
Christ. Upon four subsequent occasions he preached at
the same Theatre; and on the evening of Nov. 3rd addressed
a congregation of 1,000 at Kirkentilloch, including
eight or ten ministers who were present. On the 9th
he spoke to 1,600 Sunday School and other Christian
teachers at Glasgow for an hour and a quarter, preached
at Queen's Park Free Church on the 10th, and on the
14th spoke at the Marble Hall from Ex. xii. 1-12. On
Nov. 17th he held a meeting for young men at Queen's
Park Free Church, and on the 18th, at the noon prayer
meeting, spoke for the last time at Glasgow. During our
visit of 36 days, Mr. Müller spoke 38 times in public
altogether, with much help from the Lord, and there is
reason to believe that great blessing resulted from his
ministry.
Our tour through Scotland would have been continued
at that time, but having received an earnest invitation to
attend a Convention at Dublin, fixed for the end of
November, on the afternoon of the 19th we left Glasgow
for Greenock, and went by steamer to Dublin, where, after
a favourable night passage, we arrived on the 20th. On
the 21st my husband spoke in the morning at Merrion
Hall, and preached in the evening at the same place to a
congregation of about 2,000.
On the 23rd he spoke (by request) at the Christian
Convention to an assembly of 400, consisting of ministers
only, on "What is holiness, and how is it attained?"
and in the afternoon addressed 2,000 persons at the same
place on "Faith which worketh by love." On Nov. 25th
he spoke again at the Convention, gave an address at the
noon prayer meeting also on the 26th, and immediately after
closing it, gave it over again (by particular request) to an overflow
meeting assembled at the United Presbyterian Church
close by. On Dec. 3rd he preached at the Metropolitan
Hall; and at the Exhibition Palace, on the afternoon of
Sunday, the 5th, addressed the largest congregation he had
in Dublin—2,500 persons, at least, being present. During
the 20 days we were there, he spoke in public 21 times
altogether.
Not being able conveniently to remain longer in Ireland,
in consequence of having accepted invitations for
other places, on Dec. 10th we left Dublin, and went,
viâ Kingstown and Holyhead, to Leamington, Warwickshire,
where Mr. Müller preached many times to crowds of
hearers at the Public Hall, the Wesleyan Church, the
Albert Hall, the Congregational Church, and at other
places. He preached once at Warwick also, once at
Kenilworth, twice at Coventry, once at Rugby, on Jan.
4th, 1876, and gave a farewell address at the Public Hall
Leamington, from Ephes. vi. 10-18, the next evening.
During our stay at Leamington of 27 days, including the
services just mentioned, and expositions of the Scriptures
to visitors at the Arboretum, a large Hydropathic Establishment
in the town, he held 46 meetings altogether.
On Jan. 7th we went to Liverpool, as he had been requested
to preach for a time at the great Victoria Hall
there, erected for Messrs. Moody and Sankey. On the
8th he gave an address at the opening of a small Institution,
spoke at the Albion Hall on Sunday, the 9th, and
on the evening of that day preached from Psalm xxiii., at
the great Victoria Hall, to between 6,000 and 7,000
hearers. During our stay at Liverpool he spoke many
times at the Victoria Hall, on Sundays, at the daily noon
prayer meetings, and at 7 o'clock every evening to very
large audiences, until Jan. 18th, when we went to the
Conference at York, where he gave addresses upon different
subjects at three meetings, each of which lasted
about three-quarters of an hour. On Jan. 22nd we returned
to Liverpool, where he continued to hold services
at the Albion and Victoria Halls; on Feb. 6th he preached
at Toxteth Tabernacle, and continued to speak in public
until the 14th. During the 35 days we were at Liverpool,
and the 3 in York, he spoke at 48 meetings altogether.
Whilst engaged in these services he was greatly
helped by the Lord, and believers and young converts
thanked him repeatedly for the blessing his ministry had been
to them. At the Victoria Hall one of the orphans, formerly
under his care—the commander of a merchant vessel—was
converted the very first evening through his preaching.
On Feb. 15th we went to Kendal, where, on the 16th,
he addressed about 800 people at the Friends' Meeting
House, and held three other meetings in the town, including
two at the Sand Area Chapel. On Feb. 21st we left
for Carlisle, and here, on the evening of the 22nd, Mr.
Müller addressed 400 men and women, the work people
of Messrs. Cann. The next day we started for Annan,
Scotland, a little town of 3,000 inhabitants, at which
place, on the 23rd, he preached at the United Presbyterian
Church to about 600 hearers. On Feb. 24th we went on
to Edinburgh, where the General Assembly Hall of the
Free Church was at once kindly placed at his disposal,
that he might hold as many meetings in it as he pleased.
In this beautiful Hall every Sunday evening, and at the
Noon meetings, he addressed very large congregations
during the six weeks that we remained in Edinburgh.
Besides these services, he preached at St. George's Free
Church, at North Leith Free Church three times, at Dr.
Chalmers's Memorial Church, at Bristol Street Baptist
Church, Barclay Free Church, etc., and held 53 meetings
altogether. On April 6th we went to Arbroath, at which
place, and at Montrose, he preached eight times; and at
Aberdeen, where we arrived on April 16th, in 21 days he
preached 31 times. In Edinburgh and at Aberdeen he
had also two meetings, at which he addressed a number of
ministers for upwards of an hour; and at the Free Church
College, Edinburgh, spoke to the Theological Students
for about the same time.
On May 10th he held a meeting at the Free Church,
Ballater; on the 12th preached at Crathie Free Church,
near Balmoral Castle; and after he had held three other
services at Crathie, we went by stage coach to Bræmar,
where he preached once at the National, and once at the
Free Church. On our return to Crathie, two more meetings
were also held there. Whilst at this village, we
became acquainted with a Christian housekeeper living at
Balmoral Castle, who kindly conducted us one afternoon
through the Queen's residence in Scotland; and, a short
time before we left Crathie, Her Majesty arrived at the
Castle, whom we saw driving out occasionally, accompanied
by the Princess Beatrice.
After our departure from Crathie we went to Inverness,
where Mr. Müller preached many times, and remained
there until May 31st, when we set off for Wick, about 15
miles from John O'Groat's House, in the extreme North
of Scotland. During our short stay at Wick, on the
morning of June 1st we took a drive to Canisbury, the
parish in which John O'Groat's House is situated, and
walked upon the sea-shore, from which the Orkney
Islands can be seen. At 2 in the afternoon Mr. Müller
preached at Canisbury Free Church, where the country
people flocked in great numbers from their little farms
and cottages, three, four, and five miles off to hear him;
and after the service, at 4 o'clock we returned to Wick,
where he held a meeting in the evening.
On June 3rd we went back to Inverness, and here he
resumed his labours until the 8th, when, in consequence of
the death of an aged lady residing at Reading, Berkshire,
who had made him her executor, we were obliged rather
suddenly to leave; but during our two visits to this town,
including the services at Wick and Canisbury, he preached
24 times altogether.
From Inverness we went—viâ Edinburgh and London,
to Reading, where he preached 13 times, and thence proceeded
to London. There, during the 10 days we remained,
he spoke ten times in public. These services brought his
second preaching tour to a close, and, on July 5th, we
returned to Bristol.
THIRD TOUR.
CONTINENT OF EUROPE. From August 16th, 1876, to June 25th, 1877.
In the following Narrative, passages which describe cities
and places in Europe and America (marked as being quotations
by inverted commas) have been taken either from "Appleton's
Handbook of American Travel," from "Bradshaw's Continental
Guide," or from one of "Murray's European Handbooks."
After being occupied daily for a few weeks at the
Orphan Houses on Ashley Down, and attending
to business connected with the other branches of the
Scriptural Knowledge Institution, besides ministering
regularly at the three chapels in Bristol with which he is
connected, as Mr. Müller had it particularly laid upon
his heart to visit Switzerland and Germany, that he might
labour in the gospel in those countries, on Aug. 16th,
1876, we went to Dover, crossed over to Calais the next
morning, and proceeding to Boulogne, where we stayed
one night, continued our journey afterwards to Paris,
where we arrived on the 18th. During our stay in Paris
he preached five times at the Congregational Chapel, Rue
Royale, in English. Before our departure we visited Versailles
and Charenton-le-Pont, and availed ourselves of
every suitable opportunity upon these occasions of giving
away little gospel books in French to the numerous Roman
Catholics we met with. On the 28th we started for
Dijon, remained there one night, and went on to Neuchâtel,
Switzerland, on the 29th. There, during our short visit
of one day, we took a drive to Chaumont, on the Jura,
3845 feet above the level of the sea, whence a magnificent
general view of the Alps can be obtained, and reached
Berne on the 31st.
On Sept. 1st Mr. Müller preached in German—for
the first time after 31 years—at the Free Church,
where, because the crowd was so great, notice was given
that the next service would be held at the French
Church, a much larger building, in which accordingly a
service was conducted on the 2nd. On Sunday afternoon,
Sept. 3rd, he addressed a mixed assembly of about 1,800,
consisting of pastors, young men, Sunday School teachers,
country women in their Swiss costumes, children, etc., at
a large Hall called the Festhütte; and in the evening
preached for the third time at the French Church, with
very great help and power. On the afternoon of the 4th
we went to Die Enge, a Hall on the side of a steep hill at
Berne, where 150 brethren and sisters in the Lord had
been invited by Col. von Büren to meet us. After walking
about for a short time outside the building to gaze at
the beauty of the distant Alps, lighted up by the glory of
the setting sun, whose departing rays shed a lovely rose-coloured
hue over their snowy summits, and hearing this
remark: "Le bon Dieu l'a fait exprès pour vous donner
plaisir," we partook of coffee with our friends in the Hall,
who heartily welcomed us to Switzerland. Mr. Müller
then gave a short address, and afterwards allowed the
meeting to take a conversational turn, when he answered
a number of important questions that were put to him.
Whilst at Berne he addressed the girls and teachers one
afternoon at Dr. Blösch's Orphan Institution, preached
every evening until Sunday, the 10th—when he spoke at
the Festhütte, at 3 p.m., to about 1,900 persons—and
preached a farewell sermon at the French Church to
nearly 2,000 in the evening. The Lord helped him
wonderfully, many persons appeared to be greatly impressed,
and it was a glorious meeting.
Having before him an immense amount of work, with
the prospect of preaching evening after evening for several
months to large audiences in the close, heated atmosphere
of Churches, Halls, etc.; and desiring a few days of entire
rest and relaxation before the short days and cold weather
of winter should set in; we decided at this time upon a
little excursion amongst the mountains, and accordingly
on Sept. 11th started for Lucerne. At that town, which
is in full view of Mont Pilatus, we passed one night, and
the next morning went by steamer across the lake to
Vitznau, at the foot of the Rigi. Thence we ascended
the mountain—which is 5,905 feet above the level of
the sea—by cog-wheel railway, and beheld from its summit
a view unrivalled for extent and grandeur. The
panorama of lake and mountain scenery was magnificent,
the horizon presenting a circumference of 300 miles, and
including in the prospect 13 lakes, the snowy masses of
the Bernese Oberland, the grand range of the Jura from
Geneva to Basle, and the mountains of the Black Forest
in Germany.
A considerable quantity of snow lay upon the ground in
the immediate neighbourhood of the Rigi Kulm, the cold
was severe, and, as snow began to fall, we were glad to
find shelter, near the top of the mountain, at an hotel.
At half past 4 the next morning we rose and ascended the
Rigi Kulm, whence splendid ranges of innumerable snowy
mountain peaks and distant glaciers could be seen extending
far and wide, to which, illuminated as they were by
the bright beams of the rising sun, a gorgeous prismatic
colouring was imparted; and there we stood for a considerable
time, gazing round upon that grand, wild, solitary,
silent region with an interest that could scarcely be
exceeded.
"God of stillness and of motion, Of the desert and the ocean, Of the mountain, rock, and river, Blessed be THY name for ever!"
At 10 o'clock we descended the mountain, embarked in a
lake steamer at Vitznau for Fluellen and Altdorf, and
remained at the latter place until Sept. 15th. On the
morning of that day we started by diligence for Mont St.
Gothard, slowly ascended a mountain Pass by an Alpine
road that winds between stupendous precipices of enormous
height, dark, frowning, and perpendicular; and after crossing
the Pont du Diable, and changing carriages at Andermatt,
drove on to the foot of the St. Gothard. From that
point a gradual ascent of the mountain (by carriage) was
commenced; the grand scenery and bold outline of the
rocks becoming, as we advanced, more and more striking
and conspicuous; but all was soon obscured by clouds and
mists, and we alighted at the Hospice (situated at the top
of the St. Gothard Pass, about 9,000 feet above the level
of the sea) encompassed by a dense fog. In these regions
above the clouds the cold was so intense, that we were
thankful to accept the very poor accommodation afforded
at the Hospice (a little inn intended principally for the
reception of travellers on their way to and from Italy), and,
in spite of the smoke from the cigars of some Italians that
filled the only room with a fire in it which the house contained,
were glad to be allowed to share it with them, and
with any other travellers who happened to come in. At
10 we retired to our room, which was a very small one
without a stove or fireplace, where the cold during the
night was severe. The next morning (the 16th) we rose
early, and, finding that clouds and fog still hung over the
whole mountain region, concealing entirely the beauty of
the grand scenery around, we got into the first diligence
that stopped at the Hospice, and went down the mountain
at a rapid pace to Andermatt. From there we returned
to Altdorf, took the steamer to Lucerne, and went on by
rail to Zürich, where we arrived in time for my husband
to fulfil the engagements he had made in that town for
the 17th. On the following afternoon (Sunday) he preached
at the Anna Capelle to a large congregation, the Church
being crowded to the utmost, and the staircases and doorways
filled; and in the evening held a second meeting at
the same place, which was also very numerously attended.
At Zürich he continued to conduct services every afternoon
or evening until the 24th, when he addressed a large
audience at the Methodist Episcopal Chapel in the morning,
and preached in the afternoon at the Frau Münster—an
immense Church—to about 1,900 persons. On Sept.
25th we went by lake steamer to Männedorf, and there
were cordially welcomed by Mr. Zeller, successor to Dorothea
Trudel, who conducted us to lodgings at a pretty
cottage, with vines trained up against the walls, in which
she used to live. After Mr. Müller had preached twice at
Männedorf, and held two meetings at Wädenschwyl, a
small town on the opposite side of the lake, we returned
to Zürich; and on the evening of Sept. 29th he preached
at Wytikon, a village four miles distant, where special
arrangements for lighting the Church with lamps were
necessary, because evening services were never held. During
our two visits to Zürich he preached in that town and
in the neighbourhood 18 times altogether.
On Oct. 1st we went to St. Gallen, and afterwards visited
Hauptweil, Heinrichsbad (a small Sanatorium), Herisau,
Heiden, Niederuzwyl, Mollis, Glarus, and Trogen, and on Oct.
23rd returned to Heiden. At all of these places he held
meetings with great encouragement and success, except at
Glarus, where the population is partly of an infidel character.
Here some young men entered the Hall, evidently
intending to disturb the meeting; but the service, nevertheless,
was of a most solemn character. On the following
evening the number of hearers at the same Hall was
considerably larger, and the preacher was listened to with
great attention.
From the grandeur and sublimity of their mountain
scenery, Mollis, Glarus, and the whole neighbourhood for
miles around, are wonderful localities. These are no
places, one would think, for infidels; for here, if anywhere,
the most careless even must be constrained to acknowledge
that "the strength of the hills is His also."
On Oct. 20th we went to Ragatz (situated in a picturesque
spot on the Splugen Road, in the Valley of the Rhine),
and on the following morning took a drive to Pfäffers-Bad,
three miles distant, in the narrow deep gorge of the
Tamina, between perpendicular cliffs of an amazing height,
where, even during the summer months, the sun shines
only from 10 o'clock till 4. The hot sulphur springs
(temperature 94°) are reached by a road of planks at the
bottom of the gorge, which has high precipices on each
side of it, only wide enough apart for the Bath House to
stand on the level ground between them. This Pfäffers-Bad
is considered one of the most curious and remarkable
spots throughout the whole of Switzerland.
On Oct. 24th we left Heiden and went to Constance,
where, on the evening of that day, Mr. Müller held a
meeting at a large Hall of the Insel Hotel, which is
situated on an island in the Boden See, or Lake of Constance.
This hotel used formerly to be a Dominican
Monastery, and the Hall, just referred to, was the Church
originally belonging to the building. An old tower, connected
with the Monastery, in which John Huss was imprisoned,
is still standing close to the hotel. During our
short stay at Constance, three other meetings were held
(two of them in the town), and before our departure we
visited the Council Chamber at the Merchants' Hall, in
which the Council sat by whom Huss was tried and sentenced
to be burned at the stake. The spot—now marked
by a monument near the Brühl outside, where, in the year
1416, he and Jerome, of Prague, suffered martyrdom, is
also one of the interesting places in this neighbourhood.
On Oct. 28th we went to Schaffhausen, visited the
beautiful Falls of the Rhine, and on the 29th, at the
Johannes Kirche (an immense building), Mr. Müller addressed
a congregation of about 3,000. Upon four other
occasions also he preached at the same Church, with great
help from the Lord. From Schaffhausen, on Nov. 3rd,
we proceeded to Winterthur, and after he had held two
meetings there, left for Basle on the 4th. Here, during
the fortnight we remained, he addressed very large congregations
every evening, either at the great Hall of the
Vereins Haus, at a Hall belonging to the Moravians, or
at one of the Churches. He addressed the Theological
Students of the University also, and spoke for an hour
and a quarter to 85 Missionary Students and their
Teachers. On the 15th, at Beugen, he held a meeting at
an Institution for young men who were being trained for
teachers; on the 16th addressed 65 Missionary Students
at Creschona, and on the 17th preached at Lehrach. On
Nov. 18th we went to Mülhausen, and afterwards visited
Strasburg, Stuttgart, Kornthal, Ludwigsburg, Reutlingen,
Ober-Urbach, Heilbronn, Carlsruhe, Gernsbach (in the
neighbourhood of the Black Forest), Heidelberg, Mannheim,
Frankfort on the Maine, Darmstadt, Bonn, Cologne,
Düsseldorf, Mülheim, Gladbach, Reydt, Viersen, Crefeld,
Duisburg, Essen, Elberfeld, and Barmen, at all of which
places important, happy meetings—generally crowded to
the very utmost—were held, both at Halls and in the
Churches.
At Bonn Mr. Müller addressed the Theological Students
of the University; and at Barmen, spoke to the Missionary
Students at the Mission House. Mülheim an der
Ruhr, Barmen, and Elberfeld were found by us the green
spots (spiritually) of Germany, where it was refreshing to
be—on account of the great measure of spiritual life that
existed there. The details, however, of all these services
are not given, because it is undesirable to make this narrative
too long; but it may be interesting to mention that
at Stuttgart he was honoured by an interview with the
Queen of Wurtemberg, who sent for him to the palace
and asked a number of questions about the Orphan Work
in Bristol; and on Jan. 13th, 1877, at Darmstadt, he
held a drawing-room meeting at the house of the Court
preacher, Mr. Bender, giving (by particular request) a
short account of his life and labours to a large company
of gentlemen and ladies assembled there. Upon this
occasion four drawing-rooms were thrown open, and
Princess Karl, (mother of Prince Louis of Hesse, husband
of the late Princess Alice of England) Princess von
Battenburg, and several gentlemen and ladies connected
with the Court were present. The two Princesses shook
hands with us very kindly afterwards, and expressed much
interest in the account which had been given.
On March 24th we left Barmen for Cassel, where, on
Sunday morning, the 25th, at half past 9, Mr. Müller
preached at the Brüder Kirche to about 500 people, and
in the afternoon, at St. Martin's Kirche—the largest
Church in the city—to only between 600 and 700, a circumstance
which showed how low the state of spiritual
life was at Cassel compared with that of Barmen, Elberfeld,
and Mülheim, where the Churches were so thronged,
that, even when the rain fell in torrents, they were not
large enough to contain the people who crowded to the
meetings, though many had to walk to them six, eight,
or ten miles. The congregations, however, increased in
size continually.
Whilst at Cassel we took a drive to the Palace of
Wilhelmshöhe, four miles distant, situated in a beautiful
park, surrounded by extensive grounds where, in 1870,
after his ignominious defeat at Sedan, Napoleon III., the
late Emperor of the French, was sent as a State prisoner
by the present Emperor of Germany.
On March 28th we left Cassel and went to Halle, viâ
Eisenach, to visit the Wartburg (an old Castle standing
on a steep hill, 1,355 feet in height, where Luther was
concealed in 1521) and explored the interior of the
building. The sitting-room, occupied by the great
Reformer, when he translated the Scriptures into German,
is shown to visitors. His chair also, and an old bedstead
upon which he slept, are preserved as objects of interest.
The Wartburg contains a small chapel likewise, and
numerous valuable relics. At 9 in the evening we reached
Halle. The next afternoon Mr. Müller spoke at the great
Hall of Francke's Orphan Institution from Heb. xi. 4,
and on March 30th gave an address on prayer at the same
Hall, upon which occasion he made particular reference
to the life and labours of Francke, because the example
set by that devoted servant of Christ of founding an
Orphan Institution, in dependence upon God alone for
help, was a great encouragement to him when he began
his Orphan Work in Bristol. Whilst at Halle we went
through the Orphan Asylum, founded by Francke in
1698, and visited the different departments of the Institution.
My husband called also upon his old friend Dr.
Tholuck, Counsellor of the Upper Consistorium of Prussia,
and Professor of Theology at the University of Halle, who
was then living.
On March 31st we left Halle for Berlin, and on the way
there went to Wittenberg, a fortified town on the Elbe,
to visit the Schlosskirche, which contains the tombs of
Luther and Melancthon. Here, too, we saw the Church
doors upon which, on Oct. 31st, 1517, Luther's 95 Theses
against the doctrine of Indulgencies were posted up, introducing
the Reformation; and at an old Monastery were
conducted to the room where he lived as an Augustine
Monk, and shown the cup out of which he used to drink.
In the market place is a great bronze statue of the
Reformer, and another of Melancthon near it. We
visited an Oak also, which marks the spot where, on
Dec. 10th, 1520, Luther burned the Pope's bulls; saw the
exterior of Melancthon's house; and afterwards, continuing
our journey by rail, arrived at Berlin late the same evening.
There, as long as we remained, Mr. Müller preached
nearly every evening at one of the various places of worship
in the city, and held meetings at St. Johannes Kirche,
Old Moabit, the Erste Vereins Haus, the Christus Kirche,
the Moravian Brethren's Hall, etc. On Sundays he
preached regularly twice. The audiences generally were
very large. On April 7th, Count Bismarck, (a cousin of
Prince Bismarck), came a distance of 125 miles on purpose
to see and hear him, because my husband's Narrative had
been made a great blessing to his soul.
On the 21st we visited Potsdam, on the morning of the
23rd left Berlin, and in the afternoon arrived at Stettin,
Pomerania, near the Baltic. Here Mr. Müller preached
several times, and afterwards we visited Lübeck (one of
the three great Hanse towns, about 200 miles from Stettin),
Hanover, Bielefeld (in Westphalia), Soest (a very remarkable
old Hanseatic town), and Ruhrort, at each of which
places he preached also repeatedly. On May 16th we
arrived at Nimeguen, Holland, where he held a meeting
the same evening at the Dutch Reformed Church, and on
the 17th visited an Orphan Institution for 450 children,
seven miles from Nimeguen, established in consequence
of the blessing which has rested upon the Ashley Down
Orphan Houses, and carried on in the same spirit in which
our own Institution is conducted. There he addressed
the children with translation into Dutch, and we afterwards
went through the various Departments of the
Asylum. At Nimeguen, Mr. Müller continued to preach
until May 21st, when we went by steamer to Arnheim (a
beautiful town in Guelderland, on the banks of the Rhine),
and afterwards visited Utrecht, at each of which places he
held meetings repeatedly. On May 26th we reached
Amsterdam, where he preached several times, either in
German, or in German with translation into Dutch; and
whilst there a letter arrived from the United States, signed
by the Rev. E. P. Thwing, and four other pastors,
earnestly inviting him to labour in America.
"Amsterdam is built upon piles driven through 50 or
60 feet of peat and sand, and is protected by dykes. Its
numerous canals and 95 islands are spanned by 300
bridges. The diamond cutting industry of Amsterdam is
the most celebrated in the world, and supports 10,000
workmen, 9,000 of whom are Jews. At Koster's the
Kohinoor and other diamonds were cut."
On June 3rd we went to Zeist, an interesting Moravian
settlement, where my husband preached three times, and
afterwards visited Haarlem, Leyden, and the Hague (the
residence of the Court and Government), at each of
which places he held several meetings. Those at the
Hague were attended by many both of the upper and the
lower classes, but by none belonging to the middle ranks
of life. Before our departure from the Hague we spent
a few hours at Scheveling, a small sea-port on the Dutch
coast; and on June 13th left for Rotterdam, where Mr.
Müller spoke the same evening at a Conference. The
following evening he gave another address at the Conference
Hall, and on June 15th preached at one of the
Reformed Churches, to a large Congregation. This was
his last service on the Continent. During this long tour,
there is the fullest reason to believe, that God greatly
blessed his labours at all the places that we visited. On
June 16th we left Rotterdam for England, viâ Brussels,
Calais, and Dover, and arrived in London on the 18th.
On the 21st he spoke at one of the Mildmay Conference
meetings; on the 23rd gave an address at the noon prayer
meeting, and on Sunday (24th) preached in the afternoon
and evening at the Conference Hall to very large congregations.
These services brought the labours of his third
missionary tour to a close, and on June 25th we left
London and returned to Bristol.
FOURTH TOUR.
CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. From August 18th, 1877, to July 8th, 1878.
After returning from the Continent, a few weeks were
spent at the Orphan Houses on Ashley Down,
where everything was found to be going on well; but,
after much prayer, considering it to be the will of God we
should respond to the letter of invitation received at
Amsterdam, and visit the United States, on August 18th,
1877, we went to Liverpool, in order to embark for
Canada, having been strongly advised to take the shorter
sea voyage to Quebec instead of going to New York. On
the morning of Sunday, the 19th, Mr. Müller, spoke at
the Albion Hall, in the evening he preached at Toxteth
Tabernacle; and whilst we remained at Liverpool held
three other meetings.
On Thursday afternoon, August 23rd, we went on board
the steamship "Sardinian" (Allan Line) and sailed at 7 in
the evening. The following morning we touched at Moville,
on the North coast of Ireland; and, after waiting there a few
hours, to take in the mails, steamed out into the Atlantic.
Our cabin, the chief officer's deck room, was tolerably comfortable,
and the voyage, though rough, was a favourable
one upon the whole. Off the Island of Newfoundland, the
weather became cold, and the progress of the vessel was
retarded considerably by fogs; but on August 30th, the
welcome cry of "land!" from the steerage passengers
was heard, and when the fog lifted, Belle Island on our
right was in full view, at a short distance only from the
ship. On the evening of that day Mr. Müller held a
meeting in the forecastle for the sailors and steerage
passengers, and spoke afterwards in the Chart Room to
as many of the cabin passengers as were able to attend.
On the 31st we entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence—460
miles in length—where a heavy sea was running, and
soon came in sight of the island of Anticosti, inhabited
only (it is said) by bears and wolves.
On the evening of that day, Mr. Müller gave an
address at a meeting in the saloon, and early on the
morning of Saturday, Sept. 1st, the mail bags were landed
at Rimouski, where a few passengers went on shore. The
remainder of the day was occupied in going up the River
St. Lawrence. On its northern bank, a long range of mountain
district extends for many miles; and on its southern
side close to the river's brink, numbers of white houses—the
homes of French-Canadian settlers—are dotted along
the shore for a great distance. In the evening, as we
drew near Quebec, the "Sardinian" fired guns as a
signal of her approach; and at half-past eight we reached
Point Louis, South Quebec, after a voyage of nine days,
six hours and a half, and anchored alongside the wharf.
From the landing-place a carriage conveyed us up a steep
hill to the Hotel St. Louis, where a number of letters
awaited our arrival, containing a warm welcome to
America, and numerous invitations for my husband to
preach in the United States. On Sunday evening,
Sept. 2nd, at the Baptist Church, he preached for the
first time in Canada, and the following day at a Hall in
the city held two other services. We had happy interviews
also with several Christian friends. An abundance
of work would have been ready for him at once at various
places in Canada; but as the letter of invitation, received
at Amsterdam came from pastors in the United States, it
seemed right to go there first, and particularly to
Brooklyn, where Mr. Thwing resided.
On the morning of Sept. 4th, some friends took us in
a carriage to see the beautiful Falls of Montmorenci,
nine miles distant, where the river of that name, after
leaping for miles over a rocky bed, rushes with great
velocity to the edge of the high rocks over which it falls,
and pours its snowy cataract 250 feet into the valley
below. Quebec is beautifully situated, and is a place of
great historic interest. Near the town are the "Plains
of Abraham," and the spot where General Wolfe fell. A
monument erected to his memory and to that of Montcalm,
stands upon it. The Citadel, sometimes called the
"Gibraltar of America," is a fortress upon the summit of
a very high rock, from which there is a magnificent view
of the St. Lawrence, and of the surrounding neighbourhood.
At 6 o'clock on the evening of the 4th, we went
on board a river steamer, and, after a favourable night
passage, at 7 the next morning, arrived at Montreal,
where some brethren waiting on the landing-stage asked
us to remain; we did not, however, accept their kind invitation,
and at 9 o'clock started for Toronto, where, after
a long railway journey of 333 miles, we arrived at half-past
11 the same night. On the 6th we went on, viâ
Hamilton, to Niagara, and—having decided to remain
there till the next day—spent the afternoon in surveying
the wonders of the celebrated "Falls," situated on the
River Niagara, a strait connecting the floods of Lake
Erie and Ontario.
The first distant view of them was rather disappointing;
but a closer inspection revealed their magnitude and
grandeur to the full. "The waters for which the Niagara
(a name signifying Thunder of Waters) forms an outlet
cover an area of 150,000 square miles, floods so grand
and inexhaustible as to be totally unaffected by the loss
of the hundreds of :
millions of tons which they pour every
hour through succeeding centuries over rugged, perpendicular
cliffs into the depths beneath."
After driving to a bridge just above the American Falls,
we made a partial circuit of Goat Island on foot, halting
at all the chief points of interest. A staircase on the
right led first to Luna Island, where, standing by a railing
close to the edge of the precipice, we beheld the vast,
swift, overwhelming waters of the American Falls, 169 feet
high, immediately beside us, rushing in a tremendous
torrent right over the brink, down into the fearful gulf
below. "This, we thought, surpasses everything; surely
this must be the grandest Cataract in the world." But it
was not; for a few more steps brought us full upon the
great Horse Shoe Fall, on the Canadian side of the river,
a mighty Cataract 150 feet high, and 1,900 feet in
breadth, where with overwhelming velocity and force,
"1,500 millions of cubic feet of water" (according to
Professor Lyell) rush every hour over the ledge of rocks,
forming a huge, boiling cauldron at the bottom of the
cliffs. And then the "Rapids!" those wondrous Rapids—which
some think equal to the great Cataracts themselves—especially
attracted our attention. Just above
the Falls, the bed of the Niagara descends about 51 feet
in three-quarters of a mile, and there, over rough ridges
of rock, great masses of stone and large boulders, its
waters surge and foam, in ten thousand fantastic shapes,
and in the wildest turmoil, as though frantically eager to
rush over the precipices into the abyss below. After
seeing the "Rapids" we crossed the river by the new
Suspension Bridge, and returned to the Clifton Hotel.
The next afternoon, at half-past 2, we left for New
York, travelled in a Pullman's sleeping-car all night, and
at 7 on the morning of Sept. 8th reached our destination,
after a journey of 446 miles. From the terminus a carriage
conveyed us to Brooklyn, "the City of Churches,"
about seven miles distant, where—at the Pierpoint House—we
remained for six weeks. On Sunday morning,
Sept. 9th, at Dr. Talmage's Tabernacle (said to be the
largest church in the United States), in the absence of Dr.
Talmage, Mr. Müller was most affectionately introduced
to the audience by Professor Thwing, who in the course of
a short speech from the platform, paused for a few
moments, and shaking hands with him before the assembled
multitude welcomed him to the United States. Mr.
Müller then addressed the congregation, and preached for
three-quarters of an hour with much help from the Lord.
In the evening he spoke again at the Tabernacle, and
after the meeting, amongst the numbers who pressed forward
to greet us was a sister in Christ, one of the former
Orphans from Ashley Down, who has been married for
many years.
During our visit to Brooklyn, Mr. Müller held a great
number of meetings. On Sept. 12th he spoke at the
Fulton Street prayer meeting, New York, and besides his
regular preaching, visited Orphan and other Institutions,
ministered amongst the Germans (of whom there are
about ten millions throughout the United States), and
continued actively engaged in the Lord's service until Sept.
20th, when we went by river steamer up the Hudson,
to the city of Hudson, and attended a Convention, where
be gave three addresses. On the 22nd we returned to
Brooklyn, and on the following morning and evening he
preached at Plymouth Church. On the 24th he spoke
again at the Fulton Street prayer meeting, preached in
German at Newark on the 25th, addressed the German
students of the Theological Seminary at Bloomfield
on the 26th, attended meetings for pastors, whom he
addressed, visited a Hom[oe]opathic Institution, preached at
Williamsburg, East Brooklyn, on Oct. 7th, and continued
day after day to labour uninterruptedly, until Oct. 20th,
when we went to Boston, after he had spoken in public at
Brooklyn and the other places above mentioned 50 times.
At Boston Mr. Müller began his work by speaking
on Sunday morning, Oct. 21st, at Mr. Moody's Tabernacle—a
large building which holds 7,000, but where
on this occasion, as rain fell heavily, the congregation
was comparatively small—and in the evening he
preached at Park Street Church. On Oct. 22nd he
held a meeting at Berkeley Street Church, and the next
morning was called upon by an inquirer, a young man
under deep conviction of sin, who, having experienced an
overwhelming consciousness of his lost condition by
nature, during the sermon of the previous evening, was so
affected that he could scarcely speak for weeping. During
our stay at Boston my husband held meetings also at
Dr. Cullis's Chapel; addressed the 350 young ladies at
Wellesley College, 15 miles from Boston; preached at the
Clarendon Street Baptist Church, at Warren Avenue
Baptist Church, at Charlestown; spoke at Dr. Cullis's
Faith College; addressed 500 school teachers at Cambridge;
preached at Dudley Baptist Church, at Boston
Highlands, at Clarendon Street Church; visited Dr.
Cullis's Institution for Consumptive patients, whom
he addressed, when Dr. C. remarked, "But for your
example, all this would never have been in existence"—and
continued his labours until Nov. 3rd, on which day
we went to Newburyport.
There, on the morning of the 4th, at the Old Presbyterian
Church—founded by George Whitefield, and where
he ministered—Mr. Müller spoke from Isaiah liii. 5, 6,
and read out of the Bible which belonged to that eminent
servant of Christ, a circumstance noted with interest by
the hearers, as this Bible is not generally used. He occupied
a pulpit also which stands just above the spot where
the remains of Whitefield lie interred. In one corner of
the Church a handsome monument has been erected to his
memory, and the vault is shown in which his coffin rests;
but when the lid was removed, the skull and a few bones
only could be seen of the celebrated man, whose voice once
reached the ears of tens of thousands, and whose eloquent
appeals, in years gone by, made careless, unconverted
sinners tremble. The following inscription is upon the
monument:—"This Cenotaph is erected with affectionate
veneration to the memory of the Rev. George Whitefield,
born at Gloucester, England, Dec. 16th, 1714, educated
at Oxford University, ordained 1736. In a ministry of
34 years, he crossed the Atlantic 13 times, and preached
more than 18,000 sermons. As a soldier of the cross,
humble, devout, ardent, he put on the whole armour of
God, preferring the honour of Christ to his own interest,
repose, reputation, or life. As a Christian orator, his
deep piety, disinterested zeal, and vivid imagination, gave
unexampled energy to his look, action, and utterance.
Bold, fervent, pungent, and popular in his eloquence, no
other uninspired man ever preached to so large assemblies,
or enforced the simple truths of the gospel by motives so
persuasive and awful, and with an influence so powerful on
the hearts of his hearers. He died of asthma Sept. 30th,
1770; solemnly exchanging a life of unparalleled labours
for his eternal rest."
In a "Memoir of his Life and Labours," published in
the United States, his biographer remarks that—"His
out-of-door audiences consisted of twenty, thirty, and forty
thousand at a time, whose singing could be heard two
miles off, and Whitefield's own voice also could be heard
at a distance of a mile from where he stood. When exhorting
Howell Harris about his people in a letter,
Whitefield wrote—"Show them in the map of the Word,
the kingdoms of the upper world, and the transcendent
glories of them; and assure them that all shall be theirs,
if they believe on Jesus Christ with their whole hearts.
Press them to believe on Him immediately. Intersperse
prayers with your exhortations, and thereby call down
fire from heaven, even the fire of the Holy Ghost. Speak
every time, my dear brother, as though it were your last;
weep out, if possible, every argument; and, as it were,
compel them to cry,—"Behold how He loveth us!"
The author of this Memoir further says—"Present duty
was the only thing that ever pressed hard upon him; past
bitternesses he quickly forgot; future troubles he left with
God. He lived one day at a time and lived it thoroughly;
exhorting every one around, to follow his Lord and
Master."
On the afternoon of Nov. 4th, Mr. Müller preached
again at Whitefield's Church. During our stay at Newburyport,
he held three other meetings, and on the evening
of the 7th at the Baptist Church he gave a farewell
address. On the 8th we went to Amherst, where there is
a College containing 350 students, to whom and to other
hearers from the town, my husband spoke for an hour on
the evening of that day. During our stay, at the house
of President Seelye, Principal of the Institution, the
following interesting account of a former College student
(a Japanese) was related to us. Whilst in his native
country, many years ago, this young man, becoming dissatisfied
with his gods of wood and stone, happened one day
to meet with a Primer for children, written by a missionary
in the Japanese tongue, when his eyes lighted upon these
words:—"In the beginning God created the heaven and
the earth." Genesis i, 1. The thought, that there was
a Being who had created the material universe around,
the beautiful earth with all its wonders, and the starry
host in the spacious firmament above, struck him forcibly.
"That God (thought he) is the Being I will worship;" and
for some time he ignorantly, but sincerely, worshipped
the God of Genesis i. At length, ardently desiring to
learn something more about the true God, he determined
to leave the country secretly, and to go to China, with the
hope of obtaining further light. At Shanghai a New
Testament in the Japanese language was given him, when,
on opening the book, he immediately caught sight of this
verse:—"God so loved the world that He gave His only
begotten Son, that whosoever believeth on Him should
not perish but have everlasting life." John iii. 16.
"Whosoever?" (he thought to himself) "that must
mean anybody, and as I am somebody, that must mean
me." He studied his New Testament with the deepest
interest; believed what he read, and, through the teaching
of the Holy Spirit, became a decided Christian. Desiring
to be more fully instructed in the truth, he determined to
go to the United States, and sailed for Boston in a ship
belonging to a Christian merchant of that city, who, on
his arrival, became so much interested in the young convert,
that he sent him to school at Andover, where he
remained three years. After that, he studied for three
years at Amherst College, and then returned to Andover,
where, at a Theological Seminary—as he intended to
become a minister of the gospel—his education was
further carried on. Finally he returned to Japan as a
missionary, and was the means of bringing his parents
and brothers to a saving knowledge of the Lord Jesus
Christ. A photograph of this young man was shown to
us by President Seelye.
On Nov. 9th we took a drive to Mount Holyoke
Seminary, South Hadley, founded by Mary Lyon; a most
interesting and important Institution, where, in a large
Hall, Mr. Müller addressed the 225 lady students and
their 25 teachers. We afterwards walked through the
beautiful and extensive grounds connected with the
Seminary, were conducted through its various Departments,
and visited Miss Lyon's grave. From Amherst,
on Nov. 10th, we went to Providence, Rhode Island,
where my husband preached four times to large, attentive
audiences, and—at the request of the President—addressed
the Students of the University. After leaving
Providence we proceeded to New York. There he spoke
for an hour at the Bible Union meeting, preached at the
Baptist Central Church, and at the Hall of the Young
Men's Christian Association addressed a very large German
congregation, including about 30 German ministers.
On the 15th, at the Presbyterian Church, Orange, New
Jersey, he addressed the teachers of 22 different Sunday
Schools with reference to their service, when the building
was crowded with an immense congregation; and on the
16th, preached at a Baptist Church, New York.
On Nov. 17th, we left for Jersey City—at which place,
as well as at Elizabeth and Morristown, several important
meetings were held—and on the 24th, went on to Philadelphia.
There my husband began work the next day,
and, during our stay, preached many times to crowded
congregations. On the evening of Nov. 26th, a meeting
for Christian workers was held at Chambers' Presbyterian
Church, when he addressed about 1,400 brethren and
sisters in Christ for an hour and a half, with great help
from the Lord, and on the morning of Dec. 3rd (by invitation)
attended a meeting of pastors at one of the
Methodist Episcopal Churches, where, at their request, he
addressed about 500 ministers of various denominations,
who had assembled to hear him. Upon this occasion he
spoke to them for an hour and 20 minutes on 15 different
points connected with their service for the Lord, and considered
this meeting one of the most precious opportunities
of witnessing for Christ ever afforded to him in his whole
life. Numbers of these brethren pressed round him
afterwards, expressed their thanks, and cordially invited
him to preach in their churches. In a very short time
also, he received an invitation to address the Episcopal
ministers on the following Monday morning. On the
4th Dec. he preached at the Scott Methodist Episcopal
Church from 1st Tim. i. 15, 16, with great power, when
the people appeared to be deeply impressed; and on the
afternoon of Sunday, Dec. 9th, spoke at the Hall of a
Sunday School, built by a Christian gentleman at a cost
of 150,000 dollars. This school (probably the largest in
the world) is generally attended by 2,200 children; but,
on this occasion, the younger ones having been dismissed,
1,500 only were present. As about 1,500 other hearers,
however, were there, he had altogether a congregation of
3,000. The arrangements connected with this Sunday
School were the most perfect we have ever seen, and
the Hall, where the school is held, is a very large beautiful
building. Before our departure from Philadelphia, Mr.
Müller preached at Haddonfield, New Jersey, on Dec. 6th
and at German Town, on the 7th, to a very large
audience, at the great Hall of the Young Men's
Christian Association. On Monday, Dec. 10th, he
attended the united meeting of Episcopal ministers
already referred to, when he addressed them for an hour,
on ten weighty points connected with their service; 48
were present. At All Saints Episcopal Church, on
the evening of Dec. 14th, he preached from the 103rd
Psalm, when the church was filled with hearers. No
clerical gown was put on, and a few collects only were
read by the minister at the commencement of the service.
On Dec. 15th, we left Philadelphia for Baltimore,
where, the next morning (Sunday, 16th), he preached at
the largest Methodist Episcopal Church, which was
crowded, the aisles, etc., being thronged; and in the
evening held a meeting at the First Presbyterian Church,
when this building also was filled—many had to stand,
and others to go away for want of room. During the
whole of our stay at Baltimore, my husband continued to
labour uninterruptedly, preaching night after night to
immense audiences; but as a minute account of his work
in the various cities we visited, throughout our long tour,
would take up too much space, a few particulars only of
his ministry at the most important places can be given.
On Dec. 21st, he spoke at a State Convention, in the
presence of about 150 gentlemen connected with jails,
reformatories, etc., who had assembled to consider this
subject—"Is religious instruction an agent necessary for
the reformation of prisoners?"—a question which was
answered by him most decidedly in the affirmative.
On Dec. 22nd we went by rail to Annapolis, 21 miles
from Baltimore, and by steamer afterwards down the Severn
out into the Bay of Chesapeake, which is the largest Bay
in the United States. On our return to Baltimore by
water, we got into important conversation with some
German infidels, and were glad to have opportunities of
giving little books and tracts to them as well as to other
passengers on board the steamer. On Dec. 25th, Mr.
Müller preached at the Independent Methodist Church,
and continued to labour at Baltimore until the 29th, when
we went to Washington. There, on the morning of Sunday,
the 30th, he preached at the Congregational Church—the
largest in the city—and in the afternoon at 3 o'clock
at Lincoln Hall. On the evening of Dec. 31st, at Dr.
Sunderland's Church, he spoke from Psalm ciii. 3-5, with
particular reference to the close of the year, when he
addressed his hearers with great solemnity, earnestness,
and power.
On Jan. 1st, 1878, the firing of canons early in the
morning ushered in the new year, which is a time of much
excitement and gaiety in Washington, when the President
holds a "reception," and there is a great deal of visiting
from house to house. On the evening of that day my
husband preached at the Foundry Church, from Exodus
xvii. 1-7, when, although it was a time of so much pleasure
and amusement, between 700 and 800 people were present.
On Jan. 3rd we visited Wayland Seminary, a
few miles from Washington, where he addressed 97 male
and female coloured students, who were being trained for
missionary work: a deeply important service. As they
possessed great taste for music, and considerable vocal
talent, it was quite a treat to hear them sing; for music—in
the Lord's service—being carefully studied at this
Seminary, the sacred pieces which they sang were exquisitely
given. In the evening Mr. Müller preached at
Dr. Mitchell's Church, from Romans xii. 2, where, after
the service, one of the pastors came up to him and said:
"God sent you to America, dear Brother. That's just
the kind of teaching that we want; something that will
rouse and wake up Christians as well as the unconverted.
God sent you to America, Sir; of that I am certain." On
Jan. 4th he preached at the Calvary Baptist Church, and
on the 5th we went to the Virginia Episcopal Theological
Seminary, near Alexandria, about 11 miles from Washington,
and were driven three miles from the railway station
to the Institution in an open carriage in bitterly cold
weather, the thermometer being six degrees below zero,
that is, it registered 38 degrees of frost. There, in the
presence of their professors—4 in number—and the President,
my husband addressed 41 young men, students, who
were preparing for the ministry and for missionary service;
and about 40 young students from the High School
besides, who, with their tutors, had been invited to attend
the meeting. On Sunday, the 6th, he preached three
times: in the morning at the Metropolitan Church, a very
large one, which was crowded; in the afternoon at Lincoln
Hall to about 1,500 persons; and in the evening at
the Foundry Church.
On the morning of Jan. 10th, at half past 9, we accompanied
Mr. Shipley, of Cincinnati (by appointment), to
the White House, to be introduced by him to the President
and to Mrs. Hayes. They received us with much
courtesy, and, after making some inquiries about our work
in England, the former entered for half an hour into conversation
with Mr. Müller. Mrs. Hayes afterwards conducted
us through the White House, a large old mansion,
and showed us the State apartments, with the various
objects of interest which this residence contains.
On Jan. 11th Mr. Müller addressed about 1,000 Christian
Workers, at the Lutheran Memorial Church, for an
hour and 20 minutes; and on the 15th spoke to the
coloured students at Howard University for an hour,
where the work carried on is of a most important character.
During the whole of our stay at Washington, his
time was fully occupied, and he preached every evening,
and sometimes twice a day, as long as we remained. On
the 19th we visited the Capitol, which has a dome nearly
400 feet in height; from the top of which the river
Potomac, Mount Vernon, Alexandria, Washington, and
the whole neighbourhood could be seen, and afterwards
walked through the Government Buildings, public offices,
etc. On the morning of Sunday, Jan. 20th, Mr. Müller
preached at the First Baptist Church, and in the afternoon
at 4 o'clock gave a farewell address at the Lutheran
Memorial Church to a very crowded audience.
On Jan. 21st we left for Salem, in Virginia, 239 miles
from Washington, and on our way passed many of the
places which were the scenes of deadly conflict between
the Federals and Confederates during the civil war that
raged in the United States many years ago. Near the
line of railway Cemeteries were to be seen, filled with long
rows of graves placed close together, and marked by white
stones, where the corpses of those who were slain in battle
lie interred. Alas! what an awful, melancholy war was
that! After travelling for twelve hours, at 8 p.m. we
arrived at Salem, a small secluded town, 1,450 feet above
the level of the sea, situated in a beautiful valley amongst
the Alleghany Mountains. On the following evening my
husband preached at the Lutheran Church to a most
crowded congregation, consisting of pastors, theological
students, ladies, country people, negroes, children, the
visitors from the Duval Hotel—where we were staying—its
three proprietors, the servants (one woman only being
left at home); and an elderly Welch minister from Merthyr
Tydvil, for 30 years a resident in the United States,
walked seven miles from the country to be present at the
meeting. All who could possibly attend turned out to
hear George Müller, of Bristol, England, who preached
for upwards of an hour, and was listened to with the
liveliest interest and attention. On the evening of the
23rd he held a second meeting at the Lutheran Church,
and addressed a densely crowded congregation, when the
appearance of the building plainly showed that it is not
necessary to go to large cities in order to have vast
audiences. Hundreds of young men were present, most
of them students from Roanoke College and the Theological
Seminary, many of whom were standing at the
entrance closely packed together; whilst others sat upon
the pulpit platform side by side. The gallery was thronged.
At the back of it several young men were standing upon
forms, with their heads near the ceiling, and upon the
edge of the front seats in the gallery a few boys were
perched, with their legs hanging over the pews, in a
somewhat dangerous position. Mr. Müller spoke for an
hour and 35 minutes, giving (by particular request) some
account of his life and labours, and the meeting, which
lasted two hours, was a very blessed one. The next morning
he spoke at the Theological Seminary to the students,
and in the evening preached for the third time at the
Lutheran Church, his particular object being to address
the young men from Roanoke College and the students of
the Theological Seminary. The portion of Scripture from
which he spoke was Eccles. xi. 9, 10, and chapter xii. 1.
On Jan. 25th we rose at 4, left the railway station—at
some distance from our hotel—at a quarter past
six, and travelled, viâ Lynchburg, Dundee, Salisbury, and
Charlotte, to Columbia, in South Carolina, where, after a
long, fatiguing journey of 378 miles, which it took 21
hours to accomplish, we arrived at half past 3, early on
the morning of the 26th, and (by special invitation) went
to the house of Chief Justice Willard. The next day,
(Sunday,) Mr. Müller preached in the morning at the
Presbyterian, and in the evening at the Methodist Episcopal
Church, where, though the congregations were
small compared with those in the North, they were large
for the Southern States. On the morning of the 28th we
went through the State House, the Capitol of Columbia,
and were introduced by Judge Willard to the Governor,
the Secretary of State for South Carolina, the Comptroller-General,
and other government officers. We visited the
Senate Chamber also while the senators were sitting, and
the House of Representatives, where, on the following
morning (by particular request), Mr. Müller opened the
deliberations of the day, according to custom, with prayer.
At 1 o'clock he addressed the young men and lads at the
Reformatory Prison, and, before our departure from Columbia,
preached four times at the different churches,
giving an address besides to 41 students, with their President
and professors, at the Theological Seminary on Feb.
21st. Columbia was a fine city once; but two-thirds of
it were destroyed by fire during the civil war, and the
place, though now re-built, has never thoroughly recovered
its former beauty. It is situated on the Bluffs of the
Congaree, and used to be celebrated for its delightfully
shaded streets, its lovely flower-gardens, and the model
plantations in its vicinity.
On the afternoon of the 1st we left Columbia for
Charleston, the metropolis of South Carolina, seven
miles from the ocean; and after a journey of 135 miles,
arrived there on the 2nd, at half-past 12 in the middle
of the night. There, on the morning of Sunday the 3rd,
Mr. Müller preached at the Citadel Baptist Church,
and in the evening at Trinity Church; but in consequence
of the rain, which fell heavily all day, the congregations
were only small. On the two following evenings he held
meetings at the Second Presbyterian Church, addressed
the orphans of the Charleston Orphan Asylum on the
6th, in the presence of their teachers and a number of
gentlemen and ladies connected with the Institution, and
on the evening of that day preached at the First Baptist
Church. On the following evening he held a meeting for
Christian Workers, and on the 8th preached at Morris
Street Coloured Baptist Church, with great help from the
Lord, to 1,000 negroes and coloured people, and about 60
whites. On the morning of Sunday, the 10th, he preached
at the Bethel Methodist Church, and in the evening at the
Citadel Baptist Church, a very large building, where a
union service or mass-meeting was held, which was crowded
to overflowing, most of the churches in the town having
been closed, that their congregations and ministers might
be present. On the following morning he addressed a
meeting of pastors for an hour and 10 minutes, preached
in the evening at the Old Bethel Church for coloured
people, and on the 12th held a meeting at the Centenary
Church, where an immense congregation of negroes and
coloured persons assembled, many of whom stood in the aisles
and outside the doors, whilst numbers were unable to get in.
On Feb. 13th we left Charleston for Savannah, the
chief city of Georgia, and travelled all day slowly by
"accommodation train" through one of the great American
swamps, a morass with stagnant water and luxuriant
vegetation on each side of the railway.
"This route lies within a few miles of the coast, and passes
through many of the seaside and lowland towns and villages of
the State, situated in the midst of the wildest, richest scenery.
For miles the rails are laid on piles passing through marsh
and morass, and crossing swift rushing streams; but it is
in regions of this nature that the grandest and most tropical
vegetation is to be found. In this country of miasmas,
fever, and excessive heat, where, in the summer months,
few but the negro can exist, the most profuse and abundant
vegetation thrives luxuriantly. Extensive pine
forests, lofty cypresses wreathed with garlands of grey
moss, the bay and the laurel covered with the vines of the
wild grape or ivy, and immense live oaks, line the road on
each side. Wild flowers grow in profusion during the
spring and summer, and the canebrake rises to a height of
ten, twelve, or fifteen feet. In these regions alligators
abound, which delight in the muddy, stagnant waters,
and find in them a river home."
We passed many negro log-cabins, built where the
ground was tolerably firm; but they were wretched-looking
habitations, damp and miserable, many of them being
mere hovels of a most unhealthy character. Though the
rice fields, cotton, sugar, and tobacco plantations may be
benefited by a constant supply of moisture, the damp heat
produced by the sun's scorching rays in summer, as they
fall upon this marshy ground, is exceedingly unhealthy,
and produces yellow fever, which is often most fatal in the
Southern States.
Upon our arrival at Savannah—a beautiful city with
plantations of orange and lemon trees growing in winter
in the open air, and adorned with geraniums, creeping
plants and various choice flowers—we accepted an invitation
to the house of Mr. Charles Green, a Christian merchant;
and during our short stay were entertained at his
mansion most hospitably. Whilst there, Mr. Müller
preached at the Baptist, Independent, Presbyterian, and
Methodist Episcopal Churches, gave addresses to the
girls of the Episcopal Orphan Asylum, of Whitefield's
Orphanage in Georgia, and spoke to the children of the
Preventive Home. Before our departure from Savannah, we
took drives to Buonaventura Cemetery, to Plantation, and
to Thunderbolt, and particularly noticed the luxuriant,
but peculiar-looking, Spanish moss which attaches itself
to the trunks and branches of the trees, and grows in
great profusion all through the Southern States. Being
of a grey colour, it is unlike European moss, and forms a
long, deep fringe, a kind of sweeping, mournful drapery,
which, as it is waved about by the wind, has so melancholy
an appearance that it seems appropriate for cemeteries,
where it is found in great abundance.
On Feb. 25th, Mr. Müller gave a farewell address at
the Presbyterian Church, and on the 26th we went on
board the "City of Bridgetown," an "inland route"
river steamer, in which, with 136 other passengers, we
sailed (viâ Brunswick and Fernandina) for Jacksonville, in
Florida. By the term "inland route," is meant a voyage
down the river Savannah, across lakes, estuaries, and
along wide streams, but inside the land which forms a
boundary to the Atlantic Ocean. Our voyage proved,
however, most tedious and intricate; for several times the
vessel grounded, and as it was necessary to wait for the
tide to rise and set her afloat again, great delay and inconvenience
were occasioned; but on the afternoon of the
28th, after steaming through a most tortuous water-course,
a perfect labyrinth of winding streams, we got safely into
the St. John's river, and in the evening reached Jacksonville,
after a voyage of 350 miles, which it took 52 hours
and a half to accomplish. We arrived too late, however,
for Mr. Müller to preach that evening, though the service
had been advertised. He held meetings therefore in
this city five times only, all of which were numerously
attended; and at Polk's Hall, on Sunday evening, March
3rd, there was a union or mass meeting, where a vast
audience assembled, which was said to be the largest congregation
ever known in Jacksonville. Here, and in
Florida generally, vegetation was most luxuriant; for, as
some parts of the coast are only 130 miles from the West
Indies, the climate of this State is tropical; and flowers,
fruit, and vegetables were in season, that in most other
countries can be obtained only in the summer.
On March 4th, at 3.45 p.m., we left Jacksonville,
and travelled all night in a train where the sleeping
arrangements were more comfortable than usual. The
following day we crossed the Chattahoochee River, and
in the course of our journey became interested in a
gentleman, very ill in consumption, whose severe cough
had reached us often in the night. He had been staying in
Florida for the benefit of his health; but, as he said, "I
can't talk," we ventured to hand him a couple of tracts;
"Eternity," and "How is it with you?" which there is
reason to believe he read. The train stopped at Dawson,
Eufala, and many other places; and at 9 o'clock on the
evening of the 5th, we arrived at Montgomery, in
Alabama, after a tedious journey of 483 miles. Here,
desiring to get on quickly to Mobile (in Alabama) Mr.
Müller preached a few times only; and, on the morning of
the 9th, we rose at half-past 5, in order to continue our
journey further South. In the course of it we passed
several large cotton plantations, where cotton of the previous
year still remained upon the plants; peach trees in
full blossom were growing wild in great abundance, fir and
pine trees by the million lined each side of the railway,
and occasionally "turpentine orchards" containing the
fir trees from which turpentine is made, were close at
hand. At a distance of about 20 miles from Mobile, we
crossed the rivers Alabama and Tombigby—fine broad
streams, filled with water to the brim—a few creeks, and
a great quantity of marshy ground; and afterwards entered
one of the great "swamps," with which the Southern
States abound. At length, after 11 hours' slow travelling
by "accommodation train," at 7 p.m. we reached Mobile,
180 miles from Montgomery, and were most kindly received
there by Judge Horton and his family, to whose
house we went. In this city, Mr. Müller held a number
of meetings, which (for the Southern States) were numerously
attended, and had daily happy intercourse with
Christian friends.
Our stay, however, was but short, for on the morning
of March 15th we bade them all adieu, and set off for
New Orleans, Louisiana, 141 miles distant, where, after
stopping at 25 stations, travelling through inlets of the
Mississippi Sound, much swamp and water, and crossing
the Bay of St. Louis (a portion of the Gulf of Mexico) by
a railway bridge two miles in length, we arrived at a
quarter before nine, on the evening of the same day.
At New Orleans my husband held many meetings, including
services at the Canal Street Presbyterian,
Carondelet Street, and Methodist Churches; he preached
also in German, at three different places of worship, and
gave two addresses, one to the 250 coloured students of
Leeland College, and the other to the coloured students
of Straight University, 215 in number. New Orleans,
which is the chief cotton mart of the world, contains a
large Roman Catholic, French, and Spanish population,
and is said to be the most wicked city in the United
States. During our visit, Popish processions frequently
passed along the streets, and little or no regard was shown
for the Lord's Day, when business was carried on as usual.
Before our departure we visited the Orange Groves and
Lake Pontchartrain; but with this exception, saw very
little of the neighbourhood.
On the afternoon of March 29th we went on board the
"John Scudder," a large river steamer, and at 6 p.m.
left New Orleans, and started on a voyage up the Mississippi,
for Memphis, Tennessee. The room we occupied
was rather large, and was one of a great number of cabins
ranged along the sides of a very long saloon, used as a
general sitting and dining-room by the passengers. It
had two berths, six little windows—or ventilators—close
to the ceiling, and two doors, one of which opened into
the saloon. The food provided for the passengers was
excellent, but no drinking water was to be had on board,
except the unfiltered water of the Mississippi; and this
was so full of impurities, and muddy sediment, which
formed a thick deposit on the bottom of any vessel where
it was allowed to stand, that we could neither make up our
minds to drink it cold, nor in the form of tea or coffee,
particularly as it was said to have an injurious effect upon
the health. We therefore obtained a jug filled with ice,
allowed the ice to melt, and after mixing a little wine with
the water, to take off the coldness of it, procured a wholesome
palatable draught. On the evening of March 31st,
Mr. Müller (by permission) held a meeting in the saloon,
when he addressed the passengers, coloured servants, and
as many of the ship's company as were able to attend; but
though there were a few Christians on board who appreciated
the service, the passengers were chiefly worldly
people, who amused themselves every evening in the
saloon with music, singing, dancing, and card-playing,
from which there was no escape, as in our cabin, we could
distinctly hear, even if we did not see, all that was going
on. The voyage, however, though slow, was a pleasant
one upon the whole. The Mississippi, or "Father of
Waters," from its source in Minnesota, to its mouth in the
Gulf of Mexico, is 3160 miles in length; but the Upper
Mississippi is considered much more beautiful than the
lower portion of the river. Whilst on board, Mr. Müller
was occupied a few hours every day in writing the new
Report, and on April 3rd, at 6 p.m., we landed at
Memphis—situated on one of the Chickasaw Bluffs of the
Mississippi—after a voyage of about 800 miles. There
we passed the night at an hotel in very uncomfortable
quarters, and, at 11.15 on the morning of the next day,
left by rail for St. Louis, Missouri, a city of more than
half a million of inhabitants, where, after a journey of
327 miles, we arrived at 7.15 a.m. on April 5th, and went
immediately to the Planters' House.
On Sunday, April 7th, Mr. Müller began his work by
preaching in the morning at the Second Presbyterian
Church, and in the evening at the Pilgrim Congregational,
when, upon each occasion, the audience was immense.
On the 8th, he gave an address on prayer at the
Methodist Episcopal Church, to crowds of hearers, and
preached at Pine Street Presbyterian Church on the
evening of the 9th. On the 10th and 11th, he held
meetings at the Second Baptist and at Lafayette Park
Presbyterian Churches, and on the 12th addressed an
assembly of at least 2,500 at the Centenary Methodist
Episcopal Church, the largest in the city. On the 13th,
at the German Protestant Orphan Home, nine miles from
our hotel, he spoke to 161 orphans in German, in the
presence of their teachers and other persons; on Sunday
morning the 14th preached at Dr. Brookes's Church,
Walnut Street, on the second coming of Christ, and on
the evening of that day, at the Mercantile Library Hall,
addressed a mass meeting of Germans, about 2,000 in
number. On the morning of the 15th, he attended a
meeting for pastors—when he spoke to 150 for an hour
and 20 minutes—and in the evening preached at a German
Church, at the corner of Autumn and Tenth Streets. On
the 16th, a meeting for Christian Workers was held at
the First Presbyterian Church, when he addressed a congregation
of 1,200, and on Wednesday evening, April 17th,
preached a farewell sermon at Dr. Brookes's Church,
from the Epistle of Jude, verses 20-21, with great power
and solemnity. Throughout the whole of our stay at St.
Louis the meetings were exceedingly large, on week evenings
as well as on Sundays; and the interest and attention
manifested throughout the whole series of services
were most encouraging.
On April 18th we rose at half past 5, and commended
ourselves to the Lord in prayer for the long journey to
San Francisco—undertaken after much waiting upon God—before
us; and at half past 8 left St. Louis in a Pullman's
car. In the course of the morning we crossed the
Missouri, and, the weather being lovely, with vegetation
in perfection, the journey was delightful. In the evening
we alighted at the supper station to partake of some
refreshment, and at 9 o'clock retired to rest. The little
room we occupied was comfortable, and the sleeping
arrangements were excellent. Our windows remained
shut, but as the six ventilators above them were left open,
there was thorough ventilation; and, after passing a good
night, at 9 o'clock the next morning we reached Council
Bluffs. There, after breakfast, at half past 9, we got
into the same train; but, having to take seats in one of
the other carriages until the Pullman cars were unlocked,
a multitude of emigrants—who were pouring into California
at the rate of 1,000 per day—soon surrounded us,
amongst whom we distributed some tracts. At Omaha,
Nebraska (476 miles from St. Louis, where the Union
Pacific Railway begins), we arrived in half an hour; and,
after waiting three hours at the station, got into another
train, without emigrants, and there engaged a second little
private room. At 1 o'clock our journey was resumed, and
soon after leaving Omaha we entered upon the prairies,
which consist of millions of acres of wild, barren, uncultivated
land, stretching away for hundreds of miles in all
directions, with scarcely a bush, tree, or plant of any size
upon them, and covered only with dry, short, stunted
grass. Throughout this district (appropriately called the
"American Desert") the cold must often be intense, for
there is no shelter for many miles, and nothing to break
the force and severity of winter gales. During this portion
of our journey the train advanced only at the rate of
15 miles an hour; for, though travelling apparently over
immense level plains, we were gradually ascending some
thousands of feet above the level of the sea. On April
20th, at noon, the engine got out of order, and as we and
all the other passengers alighted from the train, there was
further opportunity of distributing tracts and of surveying
the immense plains around. Some idea could be formed
also of the wilderness through which the Children of Israel
passed, on their way to Canaan, the promised land. Soon
after continuing our journey, the elevation became greater,
and quantities of snow in large patches were seen lying
on the ground. Just before reaching Archer, distant
ranges of the Rocky Mountains became visible, having
peaks covered with perpetual snow; but, in consequence
of defective power in our locomotive, Cheyenne, the
dinner station (a town 5,931 feet above the level of the
sea, consisting chiefly of detached wooden houses,) was
not reached until 4 p.m., when the train drew up at a
short distance from the Inter-Ocean Hotel. After leaving
Cheyenne, numerous snow sheds were passed, erected at
intervals to protect the railway from great snow drifts in
heavy winter storms; and during the night we ascended
to Sherman, (8,235 feet above the level of the sea, a point
more elevated than the summit of the Rigi, and the highest
railway station in the world) where the cold became severe,
and the snow in places was several feet deep.
On April 21st all through the day we continued to
travel in the midst of a wild, barren, desolate region, with
long ranges of lofty, snow-capped mountains in the distance,
and snow in great abundance everywhere. There
was neither foliage nor vegetation, and though the railway
carriages were warmed, the cold outside was piercing.
For several hours we passed repeatedly under snow sheds,
of which there were considerable numbers; and, in consequence
of our detention on the previous day, arrived at the
breakfast station very late. In the afternoon, at 3 o'clock,
Evanstone, 6,870 feet above the level of the sea, was
reached, and towards the evening we descended gradually
towards the valleys, where the wild and desolate character
of the scenery gave way to grandeur and magnificence.
At Ogden (35 miles only from Salt Lake City, where the
Union Pacific Railway terminates and the Central Pacific
begins) we arrived at 7 o'clock, and after waiting there an
hour and a quarter, changed trains; but were obliged
to be satisfied then merely with a "section," as the only
little private room in the next train had been engaged.
On April 22nd we rose at half past 5, at 9 a.m. reached
Elko, Nevada, 5,650 feet above the level of the sea, and
afterwards travelled across the American alkali desert,
consisting of vast plains covered with sage brush, bounded
by long, snowy mountain ranges. At Wells, an elevation
of only 5,030 feet above the level of the sea, where
the train stopped for half an hour, we observed groups of
Indians, wrapped either in scarlet blankets or in striped
woollen mantles dyed with brilliant colours. They wore
curious looking hats, trimmed with feathers and wide
ribbons, and had their faces painted with patches of vermilion.
At some of the stations a few Chinese also were
standing about, with their hair plaited in long tails, reaching
nearly to the heels. At Bewawe and Battle Mountain
there were more Indians, and towards evening we
reached Winnemucca, where several copper-coloured men
and women gathered round the train. On the morning
of April 23rd, at a very early hour, we entered California,
and then the ascent of the Sierra Nevada Mountains
became so steep that two locomotives were employed to
draw the train up hill. At short intervals strong wooden
snow sheds, like tunnels, had been erected, as a protection
to the railway against injury from heavy snow drifts;
but they could be regarded only as necessary evils, on
account of the interruption they occasioned to the possibility
of seeing everything around. At 6 o'clock we
reached Summit Station, 7,042 feet above the level of the
sea, an elevation to which the train had been gradually
mounting in the night, and here a magnificent prospect
of indescribable grandeur suddenly burst upon our view.
Far above the station innumerable mountain peaks were
towering towards the sky; the sun, which shone brilliantly,
lighted up the snow to a whiteness that was dazzling;
deep abysses, chasms, and ravines surrounded us; millions
of pine and fir-trees were growing up the mountains' sides;
and thousands of feet far down below, valleys clothed with
the richest verdure, added beauty to the scene.
During the construction of this wonderful mountain
railway, it is said that the sum spent upon blasting-powder
alone amounted to a million dollars. At 8 o'clock, the
door of our compartment was thrown open, and the conductor
called out, "Cape Horn!" when all the passengers
jumped up immediately and looked intently out of window,
for the train was travelling slowly along the very edge of
a precipice, 2,450 feet in height; a point from which an
extensive landscape of great beauty could be seen extending
far and wide. After leaving "Cape Horn," we crossed
a timber bridge, erected over a portion of the valley, proceeded
to "Emigrant's Gap," thence to Colfax, and afterwards
descended the mountain with a rush, further on into
California, where the weather was warm, and the country
looked most beautiful, the trees being covered with foliage,
and the ground highly cultivated everywhere. For many
miles we passed rich meadow land, and numbers of large
trees; the fields were covered with grass, intermingled
with brilliant masses of wild flowers; lupines, eschcoltzias,
wild roses, geraniums, etc., were flourishing in many
places, and millions of Californian poppies of an intense
yellow, deepening into orange colour, outshone all the
rest. An American gentleman once said: "I never saw
flowers till I saw them in California." At half past 10
we arrived at Sacramento, and, after remaining there an
hour, travelled all day through a beautiful part of the
country, favoured with fine summer weather. In the
course of the afternoon Livermore and Niles were reached,
the train stopped a few minutes at San José, and finally
we arrived at Oakland, a suburb of San Francisco, where
two gentlemen entered the carriage who welcomed us
cordially, and earnestly invited my husband to preach
there. At 5.35 we alighted at the station, where two
brethren were kindly waiting to receive us, with whom we
went on board the "El Capitan," a large ferry steamer;
and, after crossing the Bay, landed at San Francisco,
where our friends conducted us to the rooms they had
engaged at the Palace Hotel.
Thus ended our journey of 2,390 miles (from St. Louis),
accomplished in six days and five nights, the longest railway
journey we had ever taken at one time; and truly
thankful to the Lord were we for His protecting care during
our travels, and for the comforts of the resting place now
provided for us.
On the evening of Friday, April 26th, at the lecture
room of the Calvary Presbyterian Church, Mr. Müller
gave his first address at San Francisco; and, after the
meeting was over, James Wilkinson, an orphan formerly
on Ashley Down, came up to speak to him. He had been
living in the United States for fifteen years, and was not
only converted himself, but had been used by the Lord
as an instrument of great blessing to the souls of others.
On Sunday morning, April 28th, Mr. Müller preached at
the Tabernacle Presbyterian Church, Tyler Street, to about
1,800 people; in the evening he addressed nearly 2,000
at the same church; and on the 29th preached at the
Metropolitan Temple to a congregation of 800.
On the 30th, a gentleman called in his carriage and took
us for a drive to Cliff House, seven miles distant, near the
Golden Gate, a strait two miles wide, which leads from the
Bay into the Pacific Ocean. Many years ago the spot on
which San Francisco now stands was covered with hills
formed of sand, blown there in immense quantities from the
shores of the Pacific by the strong winds which constantly
prevail; but now a "magnificent city" (as some call it)
has been erected upon the site that formerly was nothing
but a barren waste. Upon arriving at the coast of the
Pacific, we took a walk upon the beach, a vast region
composed entirely of sand, which, as no rain falls in California
from the middle of April until October, becomes
extremely troublesome, because it is blown inland in prodigious
quantities for miles by the trade winds, for which
that locality is noted. During the winter rain falls every
day; but frost, except in the mountains and northern
portions of the State (generally speaking), is unknown.
During our walk the tide was nearly high; but when low,
beautiful shells in great variety are found upon these
shores. After walking some time upon the sands, our
friend conducted us to Cliff House, an hotel built upon a
high rock overlooking the ocean, where, from a balcony,
we had an opportunity of observing the sea-lions, by which
the rocks that stand out in the sea are frequented.
Hundreds of these curious, amphibious creatures were
there, with their pointed heads, and bodies shining with
salt water. Some were basking in the sunshine on dry
portions of the cliffs, others were plunging into the sea,
several were climbing up sloping places on the rocks, and
others were barking discordantly. Soon after our arrival
at Cliff House, a young waiter introduced himself as the
brother of Emma Evans, one of the orphans formerly on
Ashley Down. He knew we were in the United States,
and having often heard Mr. Müller preach in Bristol
years ago, recognized him with great delight, and before
our departure presented us with a beautiful bouquet of
flowers, as a little token of his gratitude.
After our return to San Francisco, on the evening of
that day, my husband preached at the First Congregational
Church, to a large assembly, with great help and
earnestness. Amongst the congregation were some
Chinese, who occupied front seats near the pulpit. On
the afternoon of May 1st we visited China Town, situated
in a part of San Francisco called Sacramento, which is
thickly peopled with Chinese, where thousands of them
live. The ground floors of many of their houses contain
shops filled with curious and costly articles, manufactured
by the natives of China and Japan; but most of the
Chinese live down in places like cellars underneath their
shops, where they dwell crowded together, smoking and
eating quantities of opium. On the evening of that day,
Mr. Müller preached at Broadway German Methodist
Episcopal Church, when he addressed a large number of
Germans in their own language; and the following evening
held a meeting at a church in Howard Street. On
May 3rd, we walked to the top of a hill not far distant,
and from it looked down upon the Bay, and upon San
Francisco.
"The first house ever built there was in the year 1835,
which was the commencement of a village, afterwards
called 'Yerba Buena,' or good herb, from a medicinal
plant growing in great abundance in the vicinity. At the
present time, great numbers of eucalyptus trees flourish
in the neighbourhood; which, from their sanitary properties,
are considered a great blessing to the people. In
1847 the name of the city was changed to San Francisco;
in 1848 (the year that gold was first discovered in California),
the population had grown to 1,000; and from
this small beginning it steadily increased, until in 1870 it
reached 149,482. Now, the city contains about 256,000
inhabitants, including 50,000 Chinese, and many thousands
of negroes."
On the evening of that day, Mr. Müller preached at the
Calvary Presbyterian Church, to about 1,200 people, when
he spoke for nearly an hour and a half, with great power
and earnestness. On Sunday, May 5th, he preached in the
morning at the First Baptist Church, and in the evening
at the Calvary Presbyterian, from Romans viii. 28-30,
when the Church (a very large one) was crowded to the
utmost, the body of the building and the galleries being
so thronged, that numbers who could not gain admittance
went away. His appeal to believers, and words of warning
to the unconverted, were of a weighty, solemn character.
Several gentlemen and ladies occupied seats upon
the platform, and the steps leading up to it were filled
with hearers. On the 6th, at 2 in the afternoon, he
attended a meeting of pastors belonging to the city and
the State (some of whom came a distance of 20, 30, and
50 miles in order to be present at the meeting), when he
addressed about 150 of his brethren in the ministry for an
hour and 20 minutes. In the evening at the Tabernacle,
Tyler Street, he preached a farewell sermon. The
congregation was large; numbers took leave of us
as they left the building, and a beautiful bouquet of
choice flowers was handed in as a parting gift by a gentleman
who once lived in England.
On May 8th we left San Francisco and went to Oakland,
where Mr. Müller preached in the evening at the
First Baptist Church. On the 9th he addressed 1,000
people at the First Congregational Church, and on the
10th preached to about the same number at the First
Methodist Church. On the 11th a gentleman took us in
his carriage to visit the University of California, six miles
distant, which stands upon high ground, commanding a
distant view of the Bay, Government Island, Goat Island,
etc.; but we could see only the exterior of the buildings,
as they were closed to visitors on Saturdays. On our return
we drove through Oakland, a name derived from the
fine groves of "live oaks," in the midst of which the town
was originally built. These trees are not ornamental only,
but they serve to screen the place from the fierce gales
that blow through the "Golden Gap" in summer, to the
force of which Oakland is particularly exposed; for the
climate of San Francisco and the neighbourhood has this
peculiarity, that in summer the strongest and most trying
winds prevail, though, at all times of the year, trade
winds from the Pacific set in every morning at 11 o'clock,
and last for about five hours. During our drive, the only
discomfort was the dust, which, from the lack of rain in
this country, soon becomes extremely troublesome; and
the scorching heat of the sun would have been overpowering,
if it had not been tempered by breezes from the Bay.
On Sunday morning, May 12th, Mr. Müller preached at
the First Methodist Episcopal Church, from 1st Chron.
4-10, to a large, attentive audience, and, when the service
was over, Sheang Chack, a Chinese convert, who
labours amongst his own countrymen, came to shake hands
with us.
In the evening my husband preached at the First
Presbyterian Church, a large building in the shape of an
amphitheatre, where there was a "Union Service," all the
principal churches having been closed, that their congregations
might attend this meeting. He spoke for an
hour from Lamentations iii. 22-26; but the crowd was
so great that hundreds were unable to obtain admittance.
After the service, a pastor said—"We have had a
glorious meeting." On the afternoon of the 13th, Mr.
Müller addressed the young ladies at Mills' Seminary, six
miles from Oakland; in the evening he preached in German
at the Methodist Episcopal Church; and on the
following day attended a Sunday School State Convention
at San Francisco, where he addressed many hundreds
of Christian Workers for an hour and a quarter.
Early on the morning of May 15th we left by rail for
Santa Cruz, in South California, on the Pacific coast, 120
miles from San Francisco; and after a tedious journey
reached our destination at 4 o'clock. Rooms had been
engaged for us at Pope's Cottage, a boarding-house in
a lovely situation on a hill, about a mile from the sea
shore; and in the evening at 8, Mr. Müller preached at
the Methodist Episcopal Church, where we were heartily
welcomed both by the pastor and the congregation. On
the following evening, he held another meeting, also at
the same church.
On the 17th we went by rail to Felton, seven miles from
Santa Cruz, to see some of the "Big Trees," for which
California is celebrated; and after crossing a rustic
bridge and passing through a shady glen, reached a
secluded spot, where the large trees became more immense
than usual. Some of them are of gigantic growth, and
shoot up their tall, straight trunks, like towering masts
into the sky. The largest of these trees is 62 feet in circumference;
its height was originally 371 feet, but the
upper portion of the trunk having been blown off, its present
height is only 296 feet. It is a kind of cedar, called the
"red wood," belonging to the "Sequoia Gigantea"
species; but in other parts of California, there are "Big
Trees" considerably larger than the ones we saw. At
Mariposa, for instance, the "Grizzly Giant" is 107 feet
in circumference, 34 in diameter, and 400 high; and the
first branch (nearly 200 feet from the ground) is 8 feet
in diameter. In the evening, after our return, Mr. Müller
preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, for the third
and last time at Santa Cruz, as, in consequence of other
engagements, we were unable to prolong our stay.
On May 30th, at 9.30 a.m., we set off, viâ Pajaro, for
San José (pronounced Yozée); and, after a journey by rail
of 70 miles, arrived there in the afternoon at half-past 2.
At the Auzierais Hotel, the following letter from a pastor
at Oakland, was awaiting our arrival:—
"Oakland, May 15th, 1878.
"Dear Brother,—I have just returned from our
prayer meeting, and it may be a source of gratitude and
encouragement to you to know, that very many testimonies
were given to the great benefit received from your ministrations
here. In fact there is evidence on every hand,
that the seed you have sown, has taken root in many
hearts. The faith of God's children has been greatly
strengthened, and principles of divine truth and Christian
life have been received through your teaching, which will
be of great good for many many years to come. I rejoice
with hundreds of others here, that God has led you to
these shores, to teach us the way of God more perfectly.
May the Lord wonderfully sustain you and your good wife,
in your labours from place to place. You will have the
prayers of a host of brethren beloved, who will henceforth
have a great interest in you personally, and a still deeper
interest in the cause of our dear Lord which you are
labouring to promote.—With much love and gratitude for
your faithful services, I am
"Your Brother in Christ,
* * * *."
That night at 8 o'clock, Mr. Müller preached for the first
time at San José, at the Methodist Episcopal Church, where,
though it was Saturday evening, there was a large congregation.
He preached also on the morning and evening of
Sunday the 19th, to crowded audiences at the same Church.
At the close of the latter meeting, numbers of friends came
forward to shake hands with us, who, in the warmest terms,
expressed delight at our visit to their city. "San José is
in the middle of the Santa Clara Valley; and, in consequence
of its healthful climate, which is a medium
between the cold winds of the coast, and the hot valleys of
the interior, is much resorted to by invalids. One street
is occupied entirely by French inhabitants, and another
quarter only by Chinese." During our stay there, on
May 20th, we took a drive through Alameda Valley, to
Santa Clara, a beautiful little town three miles distant,
which contains several Churches, Schools, and the Pacific
University. Here Mr. Müller preached twice; and besides
the inhabitants of Santa Clara, several persons from San
José came over to attend the meetings; but we remained
one night only, and late on the evening of the 21st returned
to San José.
The next morning a letter arrived from San Francisco,
written by a lady, who earnestly commended her only
daughter to our prayers. This young person was converted
at the age of 15, but two years afterwards became a prey
to the delusions of Spiritualism, to which she clung tenaciously
for nine years. At San Francisco, however, she
heard Mr. Müller preach several times, and was so impressed
by one sermon in particular, that her poor mother
fully hoped she would be restored to soundness in the
faith. She wrote—"You are the first person who has
found the way to her heart for these nine years. She
crossed the Bay last Sunday morning to hear you, and
says she would not have lost that sermon for 100 dollars.
Oh! how much I wish you could see her! but, as you
cannot, what I want is, that you will make her case a
special subject of prayer. She is dearer to me than my
own life, and I would be willing to die a thousand deaths
to save her. Oh! help by your prayers.—Mrs. ——."
Early on the morning of May 22nd, we went by rail to
Stockton, 70 miles from San José, where, at 3 in the
afternoon, Mr. Müller addressed 22 pastors, and about 130
other Christian workers for an hour and ten minutes, and,
during our short stay, held two other meetings. At Stockton
the heat became oppressive, and walking out of doors in
the middle of the day was given up. There, too, at night
we had terrible conflict with the mosquitos; but though
we killed them by the score, could do very little in the
way of exterminating the foe, so that our visit to Stockton
was marked by a regular mosquito war. Our rest at
night was so disturbed, that we were scarcely fit for
travelling; but, having been repeatedly advised by several
Christian friends, on no account to leave California without
visiting the celebrated Yosemite Valley, in that State;
and as my husband desired to have a little break for a few
days, after so much constant preaching; on May 24th, at
8 a.m. we left by train for Milton, 30 miles from Stockton.
There, a large, old-fashioned conveyance, combining coach
and omnibus together, was waiting for the passengers,
into which we, and several others stepped; and—drawn
by four horses—were driven off towards the Sierra Nevada
mountains. For some miles our road lay across an open
plain, without houses, where the scanty vegetation was
nearly burned up by the sun's scorching rays, and what
little wind there was resembled a sirocco; but, after a drive
of fourteen miles, we arrived at Copperopolis—so called
from the quantity of copper ore found there. At one
o'clock, after changing horses, we left Copperopolis—reached
Chinese Camp, eighteen miles further, at 4; and,
after getting into a smaller conveyance, at 6 o'clock continued
our journey, with only one gentleman passenger
besides ourselves. Though often told that travelling by
Californian stage-waggon would prove an adventure never
to be forgotten, scarcely were we prepared for the unpleasant
jolting that now awaited us. Our coachman drove
furiously. Rough and smooth, hill and dale, all were
alike to him. Now we were driven over one great stone,
and then came into collision with another; and as for a
drag, going down hill, such a thing was never thought of.
The man was doubtless an experienced driver, or at any
rate he was a fearless one; but, being ourselves sober-minded
persons, unaccustomed to such "go ahead" proceedings,
we should have been thankful to take things
more quietly; and besides this, desired greatly to reach our
journey's end, with no bruises and without broken bones.
Through the Lord's kindness, however, we reached Priest's
Hotel (on a high hill, twelve miles from Chinese Camp) in
safety, where we alighted for the night; and, after a
journey of eleven hours and a half, retired immediately
to rest. Our room was small, and reminded us of the
little apartment we occupied at the Hospice on Mount St.
Gothard, Switzerland, but it was comfortable, and not a
single mosquito was there to disturb our night's repose.
The next morning we rose punctually at 4, and at 5 our
journey in another stage waggon, drawn by five horses,
was continued. The early morning air was cool and
pleasant, and the sky unclouded; but our new driver
urged on the horses also to their utmost speed, and, after
rattling up and down steep declivities, and galloping
along rugged roads, we reached the end of a stage of about
18 miles, and got into another waggon. Our next coachman,
happily, was of a different mould, for he conducted
us slowly and carefully along. At 12 we reached the
dinner station, and at 1 set off again in another waggon,
with five fresh horses. At 3 o'clock we alighted at some
"Big Trees," the largest of which was 66 feet in circumference,
and 420 feet in height; and, through the trunk
of a tree partially burned down, a road was being made,
wide enough for two carriages side by side to be driven
between the outside portions of the stump. After leaving
the "Big Trees," our journey was continued, and,
having gradually all the morning been going up hill, an
elevation of about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea was
shortly reached, where much snow lay upon the ground. At
about 4 o'clock we began gradually to descend into the
Valley; and, as the waggon was slowly driven down hill, the
wonders of the great Yosemite (pronounced Yozemitty)
at every turn broke in upon us. Stupendous perpendicular
precipices, as we advanced, reared their gigantic summits,
like enormous walls into the sky; the Bridal Veil Waterfall,
with its rainbow hues, looked beautiful; whole ranges
of rocky peaks and towering heights were seen; and one
Cataract succeeded another, until at last, soon after 6 o'clock,
we drove up to Barnard's Hotel, exactly opposite the Falls
of the Yosemite.
The next morning (Sunday, May 26th) Mr. Müller
preached in the large dining-room of the hotel, where he
addressed the visitors of the house, and of the two other
hotels in the Valley. A gentleman from San Francisco,
another from the Eastern States, a lawyer from Washington,
two gentlemen from England, some ladies, and a
number of other persons formed the congregation. After
the service we conversed with several, and distributed little
books and tracts amongst them, which were gratefully
accepted. Being without hymn books, there was no singing;
and our only music was the thunder of the Cataract
close by.
The next morning we surveyed the "Falls of the Yosemite,
three in one, formed by a stream of water which
takes a leap of 1,600 feet from the top of the rock into a
vast basin of rock, where, gathering strength, it again
leaps forth a distance of 434 feet, and, falling between the
North Dome and the Three Brothers, rebounds, and takes
its final plunge of 600 feet into the Valley. Twenty-four
thousand gallons of water roll over the edge of the cliff
every minute; and probably no Falls in the world can be
compared with these in height." During our brief sojourn
in the Yosemite, we visited all its chief points of interest.
"This Valley is on the western slope of the Sierra Nevadas,
and is a narrow gorge about 10 miles long and half a
mile in width, enclosed within gigantic granite precipices
like monstrous walls, which rise, almost unbroken and
perpendicular, to a height of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet
above the green, quiet vale beneath. Its most remarkable
features are its perpendicular walls, and their great height,
as compared with the narrow width of the Valley. In the
spring and early summer it is one vast flower garden, and
plants, shrubs, and flowers, of every hue, cover the ground
as with a carpet. El Capitan is the most prominent
attraction it contains, which, though not as high as some
of its giant neighbours, is remarkable for its isolation,
height, prodigious breadth, bold shape, and defiant attitude,
as it stands up like an enormous wall, the Great
Chief of the Yosemite. It is 3,300 feet above the Valley,—which
is itself 4,000 feet above the level of the sea—is
solid, massive, seamless, thousands of millions of tons
in weight; and its grey granite sides, destitute of vegetation,
are perpendicular." The Bridal Veil Waterfall
leaps a distance of 940 feet into the Valley, and a beautiful
rainbow was produced by the sun's rays as they fell
upon it. From Artists' Point and Inspiration Point, a
fine general view of the Yosemite is obtained; and three
miles off is Mirror Lake, at the foot of, and between the
North and South Dome, which reflects every rock, ledge,
and mountain like a mirror. The Cathedral Rocks, the
Sentinel Rock, the Three Brothers, etc., also form a portion
of the mountain scenery. The Vernal Fall (or :
Cataract
of Diamonds) and the Nevada Falls, in wild, romantic
situations, are also grand and beautiful; but, as the wonders
of this neighbourhood, if entered into fully, would
require a volume, a minute description of them cannot be
attempted.
"Nordhoff's California."
On May 29th we rose at half past 4, and at 6, after
taking outside seats, started, with ten other passengers,
in a stage waggon, drawn by five horses, on our return
journey. Our drive up the mountains, which was slow and
gradual, occupied several hours; but in the afternoon we
began to descend them on the other side, when the road
became wider and the route less solitary, and at 4 o'clock
a cart approached, in which a man and woman were seated.
They drew up on one side of the road to let us pass, when,
just as our waggon reached the spot, the woman stood
up and eagerly called out, "Is that George Müller?"
"It is," was the reply. "Then I must shake hands with
you, Sir. I have read your 'Life of Trust,' and it has
been a great blessing to my soul." With this the good
woman leaned forward and stretched out her hand; we
shook hands also with her husband; but who they were,
and whence they came, we knew not, nor was there any
time to ask. Her last words were, "Pray for me!"
After changing horses twice, towards evening we reached
a district upon level ground, which had been cut up into
a vast number of furrows and channels for gold digging,
where hundreds of acres had been cleared completely of
the precious metal. At 6 o'clock we reached Priest's
Hotel, and were afterwards driven at a rapid rate down
the steep hill close to it. A ferry boat then conveyed us
across the Tuama River whilst seated in the waggon; the
horses waded through Wood's Creek, and at last we reached
the Garret House, Chinese Camp, where at half past 7 we
alighted for the night. The next day we rose at half
past 3, and at a quarter before 5 were again "en route."
At the Union Hotel, Copperopolis, we arrived in two
hours and three-quarters, and at half past 10 reached
Milton, from which place we went on immediately by rail
to Stockton, where our luggage (which had been telegraphed
for) was sent to meet us at the station.
At a quarter past 12 on the same day (May 30th) we
left for Sacramento, the capital of California, 48 miles
from Stockton, where Mr. Müller preached at one of the
Churches in the evening to about 1,000 persons. The
next morning, at 10 o'clock, he held another meeting, and
in the evening preached, for the third and last time, at
Sacramento to a very large audience.
On June 1st, at 2 p.m., we set off by the Central Pacific
Railway for Salt Lake City; on the 2nd distributed little
books and tracts amongst the passengers, by whom the train
was crowded; and at 8 a.m., on June 3rd, reached Ogden,
where, branching off for Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah—1,068
miles West of Omaha, and 916 East of San Francisco—we
arrived at 11.40 the same morning. "It lies in a
great valley, extending close to the Wahsatch Mountains
on the North, with more than 100 miles of plains stretching
towards the South; beyond which, in the distance,
rise snow-covered mountains, the highest of which is
11,400 feet above the level of the sea. The waters of the
Great Salt Lake are so salt, that no living creature can
exist in them. The city covers an area of nine square
miles, its streets—or roads—are long and very wide;
and, as each dwelling has a garden, or orchard, the whole
place looks like one large plantation." In the evening,
at the Congregational Church, Mr. Müller preached the
gospel in this city (which is the great stronghold of
Mormonism), in the plainest, clearest, most decided
manner; and on the following day had interviews with
several Christians.
Before our departure we visited the great Mormon
Tabernacle, said to hold 13,000 people. It is of wood,
and has 46 pillars of red sandstone, with an immense
dome resting on them like a roof; but it did not look
large enough to contain more than from 9,000 to 10,000
at the utmost. Lion House, the former residence of
Brigham Young, was also pointed out. His body lies
buried in a miserable, neglected piece of ground—a sort
of back yard—and his grave is covered by a large, flat
stone, bearing an inscription; but what the epitaph upon
it was, we did not care to ascertain. The residences of
his 18 wives are also in the city. From Camp Douglas, a
military station which stands upon an eminence outside the
town, Salt Lake City appears embowered in trees, and little
more than the roofs of the houses are visible.
In the evening Mr. Müller preached at the Methodist
Church, where he addressed a large congregation, including
several Mormons; and after the service conversed
with many of the hearers. Having been told
that his ministry was more needed at Salt Lake City,
than at almost any other place in the world, he greatly
regretted being unable to hold other meetings; but as
our time was limited, and engagements had been
made for other places, we could not possibly remain.
The morning of June 5th, therefore, was fixed upon for
our departure, when we rose at a quarter before 5, and
at 7 o'clock left by train for Ogden, 35 miles distant,
whence, after engaging a "section" in a Pullman's carriage,
we set off, at 10, by the Union Pacific Railway, for Omaha.
The train (a very long one) was full of passengers, and,
when seated in the carriage, we heard that a gentleman,
an invalid, had died suddenly the night before, whilst
travelling on the Central Pacific Railway. After he had
retired to his berth, a violent fit of coughing came on,
which occasioned the rupture of a blood vessel, and in
three minutes he was dead. He was not accompanied by
any relative or friend. Some railway officials carried his
body immediately into the smoking compartment; but
though the circumstance was concealed from the other
passengers as much as possible, the sad event soon became
generally known. On the 6th we breakfasted at Rock
Creek; reached Summit House, Sherman, 8,235 feet
above the level of the sea, at half-past one; dined at
Cheyenne; and, after travelling for some hours, reached
the prairies on which there were a few wild antelopes and
immense herds of cattle, followed by men on horseback
keeping them together. At 2 o'clock, on June 7th, we
reached Tremont, and at 4.30 arrived at Omaha, a journey
of 1,032 miles from Ogden. At a quarter before 5 our
journey was continued, when, after crossing the Missouri,
we went on to Council Bluffs, and there got into a train
with an hotel car attached to it, containing a kitchen and
a dining-room. On June 8th we rose early, breakfasted
at 7 in the dining-room, reached Davenport at 11, and,
after crossing the Mississippi, arrived at Rock Island, the
other side of the river. Later in the day we crossed the
Illinois, and at 4 in the afternoon arrived at Chicago,
after a journey of 503 miles from Omaha.
On Sunday morning (the 9th) Mr. Müller preached at the
First Congregational Church, to about 1,500 people; and
in the evening held a meeting at Mr. Moody's Tabernacle,
which seats 3,000. It contained an immense audience,
and numbers—including the choir—were on the platform
"Hold the fort, for I am coming," was sung with great
spirit at the opening of the service, the vast audience
joining heartily in the chorus; and after prayer and the
reading of the Scriptures, my husband spoke for an hour
with much help and earnestness. When the meeting was
over, William Howell, an orphan, formerly on Ashley
Down, who left in 1860, came up to shake hands with us.
He was delighted to meet his early friend and benefactor.
On the following afternoon, Mr. Müller spoke at Farwell
Hall for an hour and a quarter to an audience of
about 2,500, including many pastors; after the meeting
we shook hands with multitudes, amongst whom were
two more Orphans, formerly on Ashley Down, and on the
morning of the 11th, we took a drive with some friends
through Chicago, when the scene of the great conflagration
of October, 1871, was pointed out.
"It had its origin in a small wooden barn or cow-shed,
in the Western district of the city, and, the fire gradually
increasing, the flames, fanned by a strong westerly wind,
at last raged like a furnace, sweeping everything before
them; so that stone, iron, brick, and other hard substances
were burned up like chaff, the intensity of the
heat being indescribable. From the very outset the fire
had been completely beyond the control of any human
agency, and it was only after it had raged with the utmost
fury for upwards of four and twenty hours, that a great
storm providentially drenched the city, and stopped the
progress of the flames. The number of buildings destroyed
was 17,450, and 98,500 persons were rendered homeless;
but the hearts of millions were touched by the catastrophe,
and from all parts of the world contributions for the
relief of the sufferers were sent in. Three millions and a
half of dollars promptly came to hand, and were the
means (under God) of saving Chicago from the horrors
which usually follow such an awful calamity."
On the afternoon of that day, Mr. Müller preached
again at Farwell Hall; and in the evening we attended a
"reception," at a gentleman's house, where about 50
Christian friends had been invited to meet us. On the
morning of the 12th my husband addressed about 200
pastors and ministers for an hour and a quarter; and in a
note from a hearer received afterwards the writer said,—"The
meeting this morning was one of power. I do not
know of better days in the churches and in Farwell Hall
than these. The witness our Lord has sent by Mr.
Müller is one of our greatest blessings." In the evening
my husband preached at Dr. Gibson's Church from the
Epistle of Jude, verses 20, 21, and on the following morning
spoke (for the last time at Chicago) at Farwell Hall,
on the Second Coming of Christ, to nearly 2,000 people, a
subject which led many to inquire about this truth, who
afterwards obtained light respecting it.
In the afternoon at 5 o'clock, we left by rail for Cleveland,
Ohio, 353 miles from Chicago; travelled along the
shores of Lake Michigan—a great inland sea, 500 miles
in length, and from 90 to 100 miles in breadth; and on
June 14th, at 7 a.m., arrived at Cleveland, where Mr.
Müller preached six times at the great Tabernacle to
immense congregations, occasionally numbering about
3,000. His last address, on June 17th, was upon the
Second Coming of the Lord, when he spoke with great
help and power. At Cleveland we remained a short time
only; for having (when at San Francisco) received an
earnest invitation to return to Washington, on account of
the blessing which accompanied his ministry during our
first visit; on June 18th, at 5 p.m. we left, and after a
journey of 524 miles, arrived at Washington the next
morning at 9 o'clock. Here Mr. Müller held seven
meetings, including services at Lincoln Hall, the
Calvary Baptist, Wesley, Fourth Presbyterian, and
Lutheran Memorial Churches; and, on Sunday evening,
(June 23rd,) at the Metropolitan Church, he preached a
farewell sermon from 2nd Tim. iv. 7, 8.
On June 24th we rose at half past 3, left Washington
by an early train, and reached Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, at
11 a.m., where we visited the field upon which, on the 1st,
2nd, and 3rd of July, 1863, the great battle was fought between
the Union forces of the Americans under General
Meade, and the Confederate army under General Lee,
when the latter was defeated with a loss of many thousands
of men. "In the National, or Soldiers' Cemetery
on the hill, there is a monument 60 feet high, around
which are ranged, in semi-circular slopes, the graves of
many who fell during the war. The divisions between
the States are marked by alleys and pathways radiating
from the monument to the outer circle, the rows of graves
being divided by continuous granite blocks, a few inches
high, upon which are the name and regiment of each
soldier, as far as could be ascertained. Originally about
32,000 corpses were interred in this Cemetery, but eventually
the Southern States removed the bodies of their
own soldiers and deposited them elsewhere." To look
upon this burial ground, literally sown with the corpses
of the slain, was an affecting sight; but Jesus is coming
and the resurrection, when "all that are in the graves
shall hear his voice, and shall come forth; they that
have done good unto the resurrection of life, and they
that have done evil unto the resurrection of damnation."
This Cemetery is kept in beautiful order by the Government.
After leaving it, we returned to Gettysburg, and in the
evening a meeting was held at the College Church, when
Mr. Müller addressed the students at Pennsylvania
College, the students of the Theological Seminary, and a
large number of other persons for an hour and 20 minutes.
On June 25th, we rose at 5, and leaving Gettysburg by
the 6.45 train, reached New York the same afternoon,
where we remained until Thursday, the 27th, and on the
afternoon of that day, at 2 o'clock, sailed in the "Adriatic,"
(White Star Line,) for Liverpool. On Sunday morning,
June 30th, Mr. Müller gave an address from John xiv.
2, 3, to the cabin passengers, ship's officers, and a few
steerage passengers in the saloon, and held a conversational
meeting likewise in the afternoon. On the following
Sunday morning, July 7th, he gave another address
in the saloon, a service which closed his labours for that
tour. In the course of it he spoke 308 times in public,
and we travelled nineteen thousand and fifty miles by land
and water altogether. At 3 p.m. we landed at Liverpool,
returned the following day to Bristol, and upon arriving
in an open carriage at the top of Ashley Hill at half past 4,
found a little army of the Orphan boys and girls, with
almost all our helpers at the Orphan Houses, waiting to
receive us. There, as we slowly drove along, the boys
cheered heartily, and the girls waved their handkerchiefs,
determined (as a by-stander remarked) to give us "a right
royal welcome"; and at the entrance of New Orphan
House No. 3, a crowd of children closed around us, with
loving, friendly greetings.